04-18-2012 02:07 AM
The ink system failure is most likely due to 2 bad capacitors on your circuit board......i posted a fix on another thread.
Once I replaced the bad teapo capacitors, my printer is working like new.
04-18-2012 02:19 AM
For some reason this didn't post before...........here is the thread after I started investigating.......
02-11-2012 01:58 PM - last edited on 02-11-2012 03:26 PM
Took me a bit of searching, but this same problem has occurred with different HP printers. Evidently a bad batch of capacitors used for quite a while. Anyway, here is what I've found (this is a compilation of several wonderful peoples posts):
First of all (don't think I need to say this, but just in case) unplug the printer from the computer and power source and let the printer sit for a while unplugged so that all electrical components cool down.
The board is on the right side of the printer and you have to pull the cover off (you will need a hex wrench to remove some screws) to see the board which is mounted with the goodies inside.
To remove the board, you need a T10 star screw driver (I had one of those kits with bazillion screw tips and drills and had a t10 tip ... I put in my electric screw driver) and a soldering gun (maybe some electronics solder..home depot) ...
1. Remove screw on the back next to the cable connectors.
2. Pull any connector protectors/covers (as it will impede side cover removal later.
3. Remove another screw near right front of scanner glass (lift top backward to access (does not look like it comes off easily so don't try)).
4. Again next to right side scanner glass about halfway back is indent with a tab that needs to be pressed down to pry plastic cover downward (front and back edges will stick and need a little help around the lips. Once down, it hinges off.
5. Logic board front faces inward, remove 5 screws on board.
6. Gently pry upward from the bottom edge of board to expose the front.
7. There are disconnect-able wires harnesses, but I'm leaving them attached for now.
The caps in question are about 1/4" diameter and about 1/4" high and are green plastic coated with exposed aluminum top with what looks like a peace sign embossed in it. Diagram ref numbers are next to them (so note where each came from as there are 2 different types of capacitors). The caps are +/- oriented, but marked on the board.
Soldering isn't that hard and these aren't complicated tightly packed components so if they are bulged ... desolder the caps from backside. For those not familiar with soldering, a little soldering 101: When installing the new capacitors, the holes will likely be sealed shut with the old solder (unless you have a solder wick or solder vacuum tool) - trim about half the leads off the new capacitor, heat one of the holes and insert the correct lead a little bit, then do the same on the other lead and heat each side progressively working until the capacitor is fully inserted - tedious but it works. Properly solder the connections (keep it neat, no big chunks of solder) and trim the leads.
On my C6180 the 680uF capacitor was labeled C662, with the other 3 being 330uF - so you need to check to be sure you are putting the right value capacitor in the right place. There can be variations in the logic board design - especially if you are looking at a different printer model. I suspect this failure may be impacting many printer models from HP produced around this time. Looking at the problems that other folks are having, there appears to be a constellation of errors around the ink system, which may be more sensitive and is an early indicator that the capacitors are failing.
More on removing/installing the caps (from Noah Adams at DaLANTech, see site below):
For soldering irons, I have to recommend 40 watts or one with higher heat capabilities. You will also need a pair of dikes, some needle nose pliers, and possibly a good sharp pin.
If you apply heat to the underside of the board, where the legs of the cap come through, you can rock the cap out one side at a time. It may take some switching back and forth between sides to get it all the way out. Make sure that you are only applying heat to the legs of the cap, and not to the board itself. Also, try not to dwell on one leg too long, or you can damage the vias (holes in the board that the legs go through), and ruin the board forever.
If, when you’re trying to remove the old cap, the leg comes off of the bottom of the cap and gets stuck in the hole, you can simply grab the remaining leg in the board and pull it out with your needle nose pliers (while heating the underside, of course). This problem commonly occurs on cheaper caps that are not well-built.
Now you need to decide if the holes that you left behind are suitable to just drop the cap right in or not. Some solder left in the holes is normal, but if you ended up with a large glob of it somewhere, you may need to clean it out by heating it and removing the solder with the pin that you have. Again, always be careful not to damage the holes!
To get the new cap into the hole, I usually cut the leads down quite a bit to make them stiffer and less prone to bending while I’m working with it. You don’t want to go too far though, because you do need some sticking through the other side of the board, and you can trim it later.
Line the legs of the cap up with the holes on the surface of the motherboard. Make sure to orient it in accordance with the marking on the board. The striped side of the cap should always go towards the shaded part of the board. These caps are polarized! While using a fine tip on your iron, flow the solder that’s left in the hole and gently push the cap through, using the same motion you did to remove it. Work it in just a little bit at a time so that you don’t overheat the board or bend the leads too much.
Once the cap is completely set in the holes, you can trim the leads back and flow some new solder onto the remaining leads to secure the cap in place. A gentle wiggle of the cap while watching the leads for movement will tell you if it’s made good contact or not.
If I am reading them right the ref numbers and sizes (actual capacitors to order are listed further down) ...
C613 680uf 6.3v SC 105 Centigrade 08/06
C660/C662/C614 330uf 10v SC 105 Centigrade 08/06
Only these caps are TEAPO caps on the board, I pulled them all to get and posted the values and since there are many unfavorable internet postings on TEAPO ... so I'm doing them all.
I'm not an electronics person, to me it is just like plumbing and house wiring ... connect a to b with smaller parts.
Industry sources will usually only sell in bulk, but ended up ordering from www.digikey.com ...
Digikey Ref# Vendor Model Description Price Each
565-1750-ND ELXY100ELL331MH12D CAP 330UF 10V ELECT LXY RAD 0.42000
565-1876-ND ELXZ6R3ELL681MH12D CAP 680UF 6.3V ELECT LXZ RAD 0.49000
There are lots of sub-characteristics for caps, hopefully these will work.
What seemed like the higher end caps had high min order quantities, but these were min 1. Order a few extras and with shipping came to $5.51.
Shipping is snail mail, but I'll let people know how this works out after I get the new ones in.
FYI ... People might want to look at this
For pictures of replacing the capacitors, see:
I hope these are useful.
from some guy that has done cap replacements (with pictures) and he too sites TEAPO as failing without outward signs (another reason I'm doing all TEAPO).
All this info came mainly from two people on this site: http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/forums/printer/50
and by a1224imac
I thank them greatly as well as well as andys6631 on this forum as to the alert about the capacitors.
Ok, so I finally got the capacitors and replaced the 2 bad teapo 330uf ones (they are green on the board). You will see that the top is slighly raised which means that they are going bad. The biggest thing for the repair to go smoothly is to have an always on (until you unplug it) 40+ watt soldering iron with a more of a small screwdriver head (not the fine tip) to get the heat to the leads and solder. It will melt with the solder....don't waste your time (like I did trying lesser watts that say they go to 950 degrees.....they simply are useless for this). I found a Sears craftsman medium duty 45 watt soldering iron (54042) for $10.99 and also got the 4 piece solder kit (54025) for $7.99, which has a fine point tool that will help get the holes clean for the new capacitor. You will also need a good pair of needle nose pliers, a sewing needle (to clean out the holes) and it would help to have something to clamp the board in on its side while you're removing the capacitors...only have 2 hands and they will be used with the soldering gun and the pliers on the capacitor and then on the tool/needle to clean out the hole. Also you should have a plate and a wet sponge to clean the soldering iron. Melt some solder onto the plate and then transfer a little bit from the plate to the leads of the capacitors. Have good lighting to make it easier and make sure you have good ventilation while soldering (also safest to wear glasses). Some other tips...the white small connector at the top of the board pulls up & the ribbons on the top right pull out of the connectors so don't try to remove those connectors (just gently pull out the ribbons wiggling straight but side to side....they will slide back in).
The printer is working perfectly now....printed a bunch of pages and no problems at all....yay!
This site also helped me to prepare (thanks!):
Good luck if you try the repair.....it's really not too hard if you can take apart and put back together things.
07-07-2012 11:55 PM
OMG! That is scary! I don't think I can do all that! my little Enghish don't allow me to take the risk and open my printer (HP photosmart 3310 all-in-one). I'm sad because it's a very good printer and looks that I need to buy a new one.
09-27-2012 12:25 PM
get this error on my C6280. bought all new cartridges and still get it. I got printer from a friend and still have not connected to my Dell computer. How can I test it stand alone. thanks
10-04-2012 06:54 PM - edited 10-04-2012 06:55 PM
Thank you so very much! spent the day trying to find the answer, and your post worked!! I have the HP photosmart c6150 all in one. After I completed your steps I had to wait, because it said don't interrupt it while it process, but when it was done I unplugged it and waited and then it worked thank you so much for taking the time to post that!
12-06-2012 11:48 AM
Thanks ever so much branaw for posting the solution. Yep it worked for me... what a shocker. haha forgot to unplug it the first time to make it work sure am glad I didnt have to get into the soldering stuff- - -but I could have if needed. Thanks to the staff for being there for help. #8 thanks
12-29-2012 10:45 PM - edited 12-29-2012 10:55 PM
branaw is a genius.
With a few minor modifications it worked.
How did you find this out? It must have been hidden under some rock or something.
- Using HP Diagnostic Tools for HP Printers in Windows
- Printer Problems after Upgrading to Windows 10
- Print Jobs Stuck in Print Queue (Windows)
- Resolving 'Problem with Printhead,' 'Printer Failure,' 'Ink System Failure,' or a '0x...' or a 'C2...' Error
- 'Offline' Printer Status Message Displays (Windows 10)