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Archived This topic has been archived. Information and links in this thread may no longer be available or relevant. If you have a question create a new topic by clicking here and select the appropriate board.
HP Recommended

so is this still a fixable issue with hp on the 2727's freezing and wanting to replace the formatter? 

 

almost wondered if it a class action thing like the printheads in the canons (mx850 and a whole bunch of others from the ip3600 and on.  must be like 20 or better models in that list.   talking about the coming up with the "incorrect printhead" error showing up eventually, and the fusers in the color laserjets of the 3170 series brother printers and the like with the heat roller getting so hot that it sheds it's outer coating and screws up your prints.

 

yah, got a few like this myself and would dearly love to get the offending formatter replaced or a good workaround or fix from hp on these.

HP Recommended

pull the formatter board.  remove the battery, put it in the oven at 400 degrees for 8 min and then remove and let cool.  replace battery (you will need to resolder it) and reinstall in your printer.  its called bake my board.  it just might solve the problem (which is due to small fractures in the solders on the board.  Heating it will resolder them and your board will work again)

HP Recommended

look up "bake my board" on this forum.  it will solve your problem most likely

HP Recommended

Since I am one of the original posters of the baking method let me clarify a few things.  You want to place the board in a baking pan with the chips facing up and the bottom propped up so it does not touch the bottom of the pan.  Most times the battery does not need to be removed as long as you keep the temp of the oven at 350F (177C) and keep the board in the oven for no more then 8 minutes.  This fix will last anywhere from 3 months to a couple of years. If it happens again you must bake it again.  Good Luck.

HP Recommended

yah, true.  i believe the page i referred to showed this done with some little aluminum foil cones thru the mounting holes supporting the board in question off the pan.  one would hope a person interested in this method would bother to scroll past the first screen downward to get a better grasp of what they are doing before they launch into the act of doing it.

 

and oh yeah...  lol  the board will be VERY HOT for a bit after removing it from a 400 f degree oven it has been in for the past 8 minutes or so...  maybe let it cool a while before touching it...

 

just stating the obvious as it seems is required.  

 

enjoy and be careful!

 

 

HP Recommended

they've changed the method a bit mate.  now it is 8 min at 400 degrees.  works better than 350 to weld the microfractures in the solder that are causing the problem.

HP Recommended

Alloys commonly used for electrical soldering are 60/40 Sn-Pb, which melts at 188 °C (370 °F), and 63/37 Sn-Pb used principally in electrical/electronic work. 63/37 is a eutectic alloy of these metals, which: has the lowest melting point (183 °C or 361 °F) of all the tin-lead alloys. Using temperatures above 375F risks damage to other components.

HP Recommended
Exactly my problem. Someone give me the answer
HP Recommended

Read my post from 8/5/16 as it contains instructions on how to repair most times.

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