Optical Drive is Reading CDs and DVDs & Writing CDs but not Writing and Erasing DVDs! [ Edited ]

[PittsburghLap]

I'm glad I don't have to have any remnant of the old OS and HP software.  I think in the past a truly clean install wasn't really available as a method.  This is good news.

1.  Okay, to be clear, when you are describing putting the DVD in the laptop and starting up, this is done at the very beginning of the process, not somewhere along the way, right?  (I've got experience building desktop computers from component and installing other OSs, but only did W7 once)  In other words, what you describe is something I would do before the linked tutorial even begins.

2.  I actually do like to run a few partitions.  Besides the OS (and the tiny boot data drive the W7 creates) I like one for OS backup images for later restoring, and one for data.  I've got more room on the hard drive than I really need so I'll probably give the OS partition about 40 gigs.  Sometimes I rest large files on the desktop.

3.  I understand what you're saying about installing the grapchis driver right away in order to have a more readable/usable screen resolution, but I'm less certain about the Chipset and Rapidstorage drivers.  To be clear, the time to install the Chipset and Rapidstorage drivers is immediately after W7 is fully installed, or put another way, immediately after I've finished all the steps in the tutorial you linked.  Is that right?  But I can actually do the graphics driver FIRST to make the scren readable, then do the Chipset and Rapidstore drivers?  And to do this I'll just move the executables onto the desktop (from a USB drive) and run from there.  When you you said do these first, you just meant do them BEFORE all the other HP related drivers, but AFTER the full W7 install, right?

4. Wifi link.  First, do I need to install the "Intel Wifi Link" driver?  I assume I need the driver to enable the hardware, even if I'm planning on disabling the actual button.  If I don't need this driver for the hardware, do I still need to install it in order to turn on the button so that it's "on" when I remove the ribbon?  You said wifi has to be "on" before disconnecting it.  I assume this means I need to boot up, make sure the blue icon is lit up on the button for the wifi, then use the start button to shut down the laptop.  And then, procedure with the usual methods to open the case and remove the ribbon connecting the wifi button.

Everything else you said made perfect sense, including creating a shortcut to the wifi disconnect.  I'll try to get some temps for you in the future, but that might be a while.   I still have some confusion of what drivers I'll NEED beyond the ones described above.  Still doing my homework on that.  If there's some hardware I don't want I imagine some stuff I can turn off in the cmos to avoid it poping up asking for drivers.  Thanks to you, I think I now have enough informaiton to install everything enough to make ti work.

Edited 7-12 5:30 eastern time

As for #1, I guess you just meant I need to have the Windows Disk in before I start the laptop and couldn't do that because it was a fresh hard drive.  I realize now you were just helping me get the CD in the laptop w/o software.

Just realized I lost my key and am contacting Microsoft for a new legal one.  (long story).  Anyway, it's my understanding you can run Windows 7 free for 30 days (any version) so long as you get a valid key in that time.  This way I can install it now and get the key in less than a week.  Far as I know it runs the full version and I can just keep the same install but use the key when I get it.  I assume I'll have to keep the same 64bit version and same version of windows, i.e. professional/home/ultimate.   I assume there's nothing wrong with phoning it in later, although it would be nice to just authorize online later when I finally get the key.  Anyway, I'm going to install now and hope I can work the key out soon.

My only concern is that I hope for just the next week until I get my key that I can still install windows updates as I don't want to run an insecure pc.

[HaggisCat]

Okay, to be clear, when you are describing putting the DVD in the laptop and starting up, this is done at the very beginning of the process, not somewhere along the way, right?

 Yes, at the beginning, you don't have any other choice but to boot from the disc as your new drive will have nothing on it.

  what you describe is something I would do before the linked tutorial even begins.

 Yes before the tutorial even begins, you use the BIOS to boot from the disc to install Windows 7

 I actually do like to run a few partitions

 It may be easier to install Windows 7 without any custom partitions and then do it after it's installed, see this youtube video

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pW3HdrDwo9Q

  To be clear, the time to install the Chipset and Rapidstorage drivers is immediately after W7 is fully installed, or put another way, immediately after I've finished all the steps in the tutorial you linked. Is that right?

 This is right, Windows 7 will install a Chipset driver (the most important one), and it will work, but more then likely it will be out of date. You want the newest one in there before installing all the other drivers.

  First, do I need to install the "Intel Wifi Link" driver?

 No, chipset driver first.  W7 will install one that will work, but run the Intel driver finder and it will find the newest version, but you can happily use the one W7 will find for now.

  If I don't need this driver for the hardware, do I still need to install it in order to turn on the button so that it's "on" when I remove the ribbon?

 No, the blue WiFi button will work with what ever driver is running, it's faulty function has nothing to do with the driver.

 If you unplug the hot-key bezel while the WiFi button is off, there will be no way to turn the WiFi on, not even in Windows Mobility Center. All of this has nothing to do with the driver, this is just a way to permanently disable the WiFi switch on the bezel so you can turn the WiFi off and on in Windows Mobility Center.

   I assume this means I need to boot up, make sure the blue icon is lit up on the button for the wifi, then use the start button to shut down the laptop

 You don't need to use the power button to do a forced shut down, just shut down as normally, just be sure the WiFi button is blue when you shut down. Doing forced shut down is not good for the hard drive.

 When you get your key, right click on "Computer" and go go "Properties"

 At the bottom of that page find "Change product key", click on that and enter your key. Microsoft doesn't bother with the phone any more or at least I have never had to use the phone.

[PittsburghLap]

I've got it working.  I installed the main drivers before enabling the wifi to avoid windows updates from interfering with the windows updates and such.  Overall, it went pretty smooth thanks to you.

I haven't used it a lot but things seem pretty smooth.  The only drivers I installed were the chipset, ridge, and graphcis card.  The wifi seems to work fine (although I haven't disconnected the cable yet).   I've got 6 "!" in the device manager.  Three "base system" devices, and three "unknown devices".  I'm still looking through the notebook review thread for drivers to determine what I might need.

Also, is there a better display driver?  Mine says "Mobile PC Display" and I'm not sure it's defaulting to the correct resolutions. 

I understand I need to disconnect the wifi button, but what about the rest?   Because I haven't installed the drivers, is everything else disabled by default?  They don't seem to do anything.   Should I disconnect the hardware for those buttons as well?

Thanks again for all the help.

EDIT:  Hey, I guess the buttons for sound and playing media DO work, but they don't have the click noise, they don't change color to red, and it breifly freeze everything while it first loads everything.  I might just try it like this for a while, but will probably still disconenct the wifi cable to prevent it from blinking out when it overheats or shorts or whatever goes on sometimes.

[HaggisCat]

You should see this in the device manager when you click on "Display Adapters"

 

 All the rest of the buttons pretty much depend upon the HP Bloat ware to function, however the volume and mute do work, and it will turn red when you install the IDT High Definition Audio Driver.

 There will be no OSD for the volume but if you slide your finger up and down on the control you will notice a change in the Windows speaker icon in the task bar. (it's very subtle and it may take a few passes on the slider control to see the change in the icon)

 http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-drivers-software-forum/404164-drivers-hp-dv6-2xxx-dv7-3xxx-dv8-hd...

 Drivers.

 Intel WiFi link (driver only) 64 bit Version 14.3.2.6

 IDT High Definition Audio Codec Version 6.10.6395.0

 JMicron JMB38X Card reader Version 1.0.70.3

 ENE CIR Receiver Version 2.7.4.3

 Broadcom 2070 / 20702 Bluetooth Version 6.5.1.2700  (if you have Bluetooth)

 Synaptics ThouchPad / ClickPad Version 16.0.5.1

 Validity Fingerprint Reader Version 4.1.139

 HP SimplePass Software by DigitalPersona Version 5.2.0.233 (this is not a driver, but the software so your finger print scanner will work)

 HP Mobile Data Protection Sensor Version 4.2.4.1 (the install package also contains the software which will be found in the "Control Panel")

 If you don't want this running you may uninstall the software in "Programs and Features"  and the driver will remain behind. The driver needs to be there to take of one of the warning signs in the device manager.

 When you have taken care of all the warning signs in the device manager I refer to this as a base configuration and I recommend making a mirror image if this. The laptop at this point will be at it's cleanest configuration and if you get a nasty virus that destroys the registry beyond repair, you simply can load the OS back onto the drive with your custom discs.

 See "Backup and Restore" in the control panel and then find "Create a System Image". Use non rewritable DVD's and a good brand name like Sony or Verbatim.

 After it's done you will be prompted to create a system repair disc _ you don't have to do this, you may use your Windows installation disc as your repair disc _ it has that feature in it. The repair disc is used to boot from to use your repair discs.

 If you don't want to use DVD's you may create a partition and keep the mirror image in there, the advantage to this is that it will automatically update itself as you install new programs, updates, drivers etc.

 Be sure and have you product key entered before creating the mirror image of your drive.

[PittsburghLap]

Well, I'm not sure what to do.  Everything works fine right now.  Better than original.  No programs having to load up and run every time I touch a volume button, it just works.  Red light would be nice as an indication, but not worth it if something's got to fire up and run just to see it.  I don't have bluetooth, and I've never used the finger scan thing and never will.  I don't want or need the OSD.   The clicking sounds were fine, but not worth some software firing up just to make the clicks.  I might leave the wifi alone for now, but I'm glad I know how to disconnect the button it in the future if I need to. I never really use the media play/fwd/etc keys, but I did test them and they do work.  Volume slider and mute work fine as well.

I guess I'd rather not install any software if I don't need to use it beyond what I have going now.  If I install the drivers will that enable software to run?  Is there really anything wrong with having warning signs in the device manager?  Does it slow things down, slow down the start up,  or cause crashes or problems?   Can I just turn some of this stuff off in the bios?  Can I install the drivers to eliminate the warning signs, but then just use things as is with no extra software slowing me down or sucking resources?  In particular if I install the IDT High Definition Audio Driver to get the red light back, is that going to run extra software to make it work?

I clearly don't need the wifi driver installed for it to work, so what does the "Intel WiFi link (driver only) 64 bit Version 14.3.2.6" do?  (I'm running 64bit W7)  I'm not really sure what JMicron JMB38X Card reader Version 1.0.70.3 and ENE CIR Receiver Version 2.7.4.3 and HP Mobile Data Protection Sensor are for.  Do some of these drivers just make the stuff I'm doing run better or are they actually for features that I don't currently have running?

I actually have the Nvidia 9600M GT and it does show up in the device manager properly, but when I go to the Screen Resolution page (appearance & personalize/display/screen resolution) for the display it shows "1. Mobile PC Display" with resolution choices of 1920X1080(recommended)/1280x720/800x600, suggesting that anything in between is not supported.  If this were a desktop PC I would say it looks like it needs the correct Monitor Driver.  What's your say?  At least are these the correct resolution choices? 

I'm a big fan of back up images.  I use True Image 2010.  I do very basic full images and for that it's been fine. Taiyo yuden DVDs have a good rep for lasting for many many years and you can get them pretty cheap if you buy them in bulk.  

Well, thanks again for all your insight and time.  You're a great resource. 

[HaggisCat]

No it doesn't matter if you leave the warning signs in the device manager, I only gave them to you because most people freak out about the warning signs and want them fixed.

IDT High Definition sound is useful if you hook up you machine to a multi channel home theater system, otherwise you don't really need it. The Windows default stereo sound driver works just fine.

 JMicron Card Reader driver is for the card reader slot, an older card of only 4 GB works fine, but if you use a 32 GB one it may not work and you will have to install the driver.

 ENE CIR  Receiver is to make the small hand held remote work, if you don't use the remote, then don't install it.

 The Mobile Data Protection Sensor is to protect your hard drive from being damaged if you knock your laptop while it's running, onto the floor. It detects the fall and locks the hard drive arm in place before it hits the floor to protect the platters in the drive. If you're careless then you need this.

  You can't turn any of this stuff off or on in the BIOS, the BIOS options on an HP laptop are very limited.

 Installing the drivers may or may not slow the boot up, I never experimented in that manner. If you install a driver and it slows the boot time, then uninstall it.

 The new WiFi driver simply replaces the old Intel WiFi driver you're running now. If you're happy with the way the WiFi works now then leave it. If one day a Windows up date comes in and the WiFi won't connect, then install the new driver for the WiFi.

 Concerning the NVIDIA driver, if you go the Control Panel you find the NVIDIA control panel where you can change the resolution, but it automatically detects the default resolution of your screen which is 1920 x 1080p. If you connect up an external monitor or a flat screen TV through the HDMI connection it will automatically detect that resolution, the GT 9600 M is not a bad card for this, it's just weak in the gaming department when it comes to the new games.

Those other resolutions that show up are the other ones that your laptop screen will scale too, this has nothing to do what the NVIDIA card will actually support. Leave it at 1920 x 1080... If you change it to one of the ones listed things won't display correctly, so leave it alone.

 You have the correct driver you already installed form NVIDIA _ there is no other driver to install concerning your display.

 These questions can be answered just by Googling them, so it's time do you own home work.

 If you have trouble installing a driver or getting some piece of hardware to work etc. I will help you with that.

[PittsburghLap]

Haggiscat,

Okay, I think I'm good for now.  Just have to use it for a while and see if any issues pop up.  Thanks again for all your help, time and patience.

[PittsburghLap]

One thing I noticed last night.  I sometimes watch movies on my HDTV via the laptop.  Worked very in all modes, projector only, duplicate, extended, projector off.  Then, I updated the IDT High Definition Audio Codec and it's a small thing, but it was nice to see the mute and wifi turn red when off.  

BUT, then the audio wouldn't transfer to the HDTV while watching a movie on Amazon.  I tried all modes, then logged off, tried again, and started the browser AFTER the modes were set in place, but no matter what I tried audio alway stayed with the laptop (HDMI cable was used).  I uninstalled the IDT Audio driver, rebooted, and instantly the problem went away.  

I can live without the little red light and i'm not sure I would have needed the muliti channel sound thingy anyway, but I thought I'd run this buy you in case you had a quick fix and also just to add to your general knowledge for troubleshooting for others.  Don't think it's related but I also installed the touchpad, wifi, and mobile data protection drivers and of course the chipset, rapid storage, and graphcis card.  Took a pass on the rest for now.

[HaggisCat]

If you haven't already done so go to the "Control Panel" and change the configuration to "Icon" view (large or small) in the upper right hand corner from "Category View"  (it's easier to find things)

 With the IDT sound driver installed go to Sound in the control panel. Be sure and have your HDTV connected through HDMI before going to "Sound".

 Your TV will show up there _ click on it and mark it as default in the small drop-down box just below it.

 Next - click on Configure and choose what your HDTV is capable of, follow the prompts and close that window.

 Then go to Properties and make sure all the levels are at 100%. In all cases be sure and save the settings if there is that option to do so.

 The next time when you plug in your TV these sound settings will automatically be saved.

 It is also advisable to create a Windows manual restore point before installing any driver. In your case if the driver doesn't work out for what ever reason, sometimes just uninstalling it doesn't always get you back to square one.

 A manual Windows restore is a much better way to return the machine to previous states.

 Also, with the touch pad driver installed you have much more control over the settings. You can find them in the Control Panel under Mouse. There will be a red Icon in the heading bar that says "Device Settings".

[PittsburghLap]

Perfect solution.  HDTV has sound when it's supposed to and I have my red light indicator back. 

But this reminds me of another sound issue I've always had... (lol, sorry man I really am trying to wrap this up, but you're just too good).  When I plug headphones into either port, the headphones work fine, but the sound continues to pour out of the laptop speakers.  This has always been an issue even pre-W7.  Only way I could find to stop this was disabling the laptop speakers in the control panel and then re-enable them again later.  Any work around for this?

And another thing... lol..  I've noticed that one of my USB ports is dead.  It's the one nearest the the two headphone jacks.  The other two work fine.  It's possible this was a problem before W7.  Can't remember.  I'll troubleshoot it, but can you verify if this requries a driver?

BTW, I picked up a sweet cheap little fan from Amazon that works nice to cool off this laptop.  It's USB, very quiet, and has a speed knob. Not sure if you'd be interested, but check it out.  It's worked out well for me.

Canadian

http://www.amazon.ca/Thermaltake-A1888-Mobile-Fan-II/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342393485...

I don't know the exchange rate, but it's a cheap fan in US currency and there are a lot more reviews posted on the amerian amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080G0BK/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00