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03-06-2011 08:52 PM
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07-24-2011 04:45 AM - edited 07-24-2011 04:48 AM
Hi, I solved heat problem.
Follow these instructions in order to disassemble laptop:
Clean cooler and fan from dust and dirty.
If you don't have warranty anymore you can drill holes in bottom cover to supply cold air to the fan.
That completely solved heat problem, no more server noise .
07-27-2011 02:15 AM
I've done the cleaning thing and taken it apart to a point where I had to download the manual to put it back together and that didnt change a thing. Im also running 64bit win7 but this problem has been going since I purchased the machine.
What kinda gets to me though is that this is an official HP forum and now technician of theres has offered advice on how to resolve or reduce the problem. If thats not admitting there is a design fault then I dont know what is...
Subsequently my battery now needs replacing and the machine often crashes... Never again HP, purely on a customer service basis but thank you!
07-27-2011 02:20 AM
Thats probably the best suggestion I've heard, drill holes in the chasy, but it could also end up to be one of those things where it should say "dont try this at home" and you end up drilling through componants... DOH
10-27-2011 05:27 AM
Yes I'm having the same problem here
i bought a cooler for my laptop because i got burnt on the side of it first day but it has melted the cooler so now my cooler doesn't work
i bought it 5 years ago though so what am i to do?
11-28-2011 06:04 PM
I've owned a HP6735S for about 2-3 years. The fan is now on all the time. It goes quiet for about 10 secs after the laptop is started and then runs continually. It's never ever quiet. It's not stupidly loud but loud enough that I'm now embarrassed to take it out. According to SpeedFan core temp is always between 64-68C. The laptop is almost always operated on a flat wooden desk. Since I bought it the laptop has always felt very warm when used. The fan starts to blow warm air out very quickly after starting.
I've used compressed air to clean the fan. No change.
I've followed instructions online and taken the laptop apart to clean the fan and vents. There was only a little dust. This was cleaned out. No change.
I'm reaching the point where as much as I don't want to I'm going to have to get rid of it unless something changes soon! So...
I can't work out how to check that the Bios are up to date. Yes, I'm sure it's simple enough but I'm not a computer person at all. Any advice?
In one of the earlier posts Artoleus wrote about taking a look at the CPU on his 6735S, finding too much thermal paste causing a gap between it and the heatsink and thus replacing this. If need be I'll take a shot at this - nothing to lose. But anybody have any advice about this procedure?
I'm even happy to drill holes beneath the fan (as also suggested above)...
And if updating bios, replacing the thermal paste and drilling work fail to quieten the fan, then - aside from getting a new laptop - what might I do next?!
01-26-2012 04:43 AM
I have worked on hundreds of laptops in the past, alot with the common problem of sucking up dust etc from the lap the laptop is sat on and the vents get blocked. The HP 6735s however has a radical new answer to the problem. NO VENTS for it to suck the air in that it needs to cool the PC down with. How can it blow air out through the cooling fins if it can't get any air to pull in ???? THIS IS A DESIGN FAULT.... The only possible source of the air that it needs is through some tiny holes in the keyboard above the fan. If you are having problems with this PC then take all the above steps of blowing air through the outlet on the side or take the keyboard off and suck out the fan with your Hover. but whilst the keyboard is off if you look at the back of it you will see that HP did have the good idea of removing a section o the clear plastic that covers the back of the keyboard above the fan. Hover this area both on the front and back of the keyboard... Please be carefull not to suck off any keys !!!! The best answer is the idea of drilling holes in the bottom of the laptop, as this is what HP should have done.
04-24-2012 04:53 PM
For what it's worth, I would like to add my experience with my home laptop, a 6735S with a Turion RM-70. The AMD 780G chipset is great! The reason I bought this at the start of 2008 was for the performance of the HD3200 graphics which is, I would like to add, when memory is in dual channel mode, significantly faster. This is still a very useable computer with even some of the later games out now. I can just about play Skyrim!
There are several areas on which I would like to concentrate, so I will try to arrange these to make this a useful post:
CPU heat - Cause 1:
The AMD series of mobile CPUs are very good at using Cool n Quiet to control the output of heat for average users. These units lose generous wattage if consistently loaded. Problems occur when inadequate additional cooling is available to prevent the CPU staying hot for prolonged periods. As has been mentioned, this leads to a condition I remember in the early 90's being called 'Silicon Rot'. This permanently affects stability, requiring higher voltages to maintain stability. This is a nasty step to take, +V without reducing R (current), not only decreases battery life and capacity but, increases heat output.
Undervolting - Option 1:
One way to reduce the heat, if stability has not been affected by 'Silicon Rot' is to reduce the voltage supply a little. With the RM70 and other AMD CPUs with the same core, you can use K10STAT to do this. I used this method for over two years with some degree of success, with no stability problems. Search using your favourite engine for articles to find a download and to explain how to install and set up. This worked until I upgraded the memory to take advantage of dual channel (not available in 3Gb configurations except in Brazil, I think: strange, but possibly true - check it out if you like). The voltage required for stable dual channel use is higher for my laptop than I had set with K10STAT and it would display a common BSOD error IRQnotlessthanorequal... which normally indicates a hardware fault, often a memory one. I have since, stopped using K10STAT and set stock voltages. Stability is no longer directly affected by the voltage.
GPU heat - Cause 2 :
I would say this is a secondary problem to the CPU heat output. The GPU shares the heatpipe from the CPU heatsink, so will be able to transfer less heat energy through its heatsink to the pipe. It is important to reduce the temperature of this component, in my opinion, just as much as it is for the CPU. The HD3200 does a wonderful job, though software support for specific components from AMD seems to have a short life in comparison to other major suppliers and doesn't seem to me to really make the best of the hardware. Don't expect to be able to do much to influence the temperature of this using software, other than keeping drivers 'cleanly' up to date.
Thermal Paste - Option 2:
HP used, in my laptop, blue thermal pads to conduct heat to the heatsinks. This was adequate for the first six months but, consider researching a suitable micronised metal or carbon (diamond) heat transfer compound to replace them. Application, as mentioned before, should follow careful disassembly of almost the whole laptop, using a suitable cleaner, (synthetic alcohol base, not citric/petroleum/etc.) ethanol is good. Apply the compound as thinly as possible. Avoid over-working the paste, get in on smoothly to reduce the likelyhood of trapping mini air-pockets. Tighten the heatsink/pipe assembly gently following the numbered screws in two passes to tighten fully on the second pass. (This might be over-cautious of me but, I would like my laptop to last a good while longer). See earlier posts for very good links to DIYs on this.
Small heat dissipating components - Cause 3:
It may be that the slim 'fins', short pipes and single fan used to transfer the heat to the air are not enough. I have seen other laptops use two sets of fins, connected by two or more heat-pipes, using more than one fan to do the same job as the one does in the 6735s. It does however, still work adequately as is. There's not much you can do to change it, I wouldn't recommend trying. The fins do collect debris very easily though. This reduces airflow and the surface area available for heat exchange to the air. You could go as far as to mod the system to use a small water-cooling solution, or additional fans with a couple of small peltiers to massively increase the heat dissipation. Weigh up the risks if you like. One thing I have noticed is how I angle the laptop - if the vent is raised slightly higher than the opposite edge (tilt it to the right) convection cools the thing noticeably quicker.
Remove the lint - Option 3:
While you're replacing the thermal compound on the heatsinks and you've fully disassembled your laptop, don't forget to clean out all the debris collected anywhere you can see it. Use a soft brush, a can of air and ethanol, or just blow through the gaps. If there is any debris it will affect cooling.
Buggy firmware - Cause 4:
The initial releases of firmware for this laptop may cause the fan speed control to malfunction. Normally noticed after a resume from a sleep state. This will prevent the correct temperature being maintained, or at least, the fan control attempting to maintain it correctly.
Update to latest firmware - Option 4:
Good results come of making sure the firmware is up to date. Plenty of information on HP support pages on how to do this. Just one major possible problem, not documented well: BIOS Disaster Recovery. Although HP have the BIOS backup in the HP_TOOLS FAT32 partition to restore it in case the update fails, there is a flaw. HP have documented that FAT32 is supported by the BIOS disaster recovery. The Phoenix/Insyde BIOS disaster recovery does not support FAT32 I know, I tried. Another problem, it does support FAT12 (so you can use a USB floppy) but, the BIOS image is too large to fit on such a partition. The solution here is to partition a USB stick at least 4Mb (yes, you can use 4Gb+ as well) as FAT16. See the end of this post on how to do this.
Case insulates - Cause 5:
HP have done a respectable job in shrouding internal components where possible, with thin metals. Not only does this reduce EM interference but, it helps to spread the heat around the shell, reducing hot-spots internally. It doesn't do a fantastic job but, it does it all the same. The problem I see with this is the plastic outer shell doesn't seem to help much at all. I may be wrong. I can't think of any obvious solutions to this other than keeping the outer case cooler. SOunds obvious but, it's not just cold air going in that helps, the greater the temperature difference at either side of a solid material, the faster conduction will move the energy to the cooler side. Correct me if I'm wrong please, I vaguely remember something about this in physics classes and my brain likes to generate its own 'facts' from partial information.
Poor air intake and position - Cause 6:
Air intake for cooling is through all the little gaps in the case, including the keyboard where your warm hands are, through vents on the bottom (rather than at the edges) where your warm... you get the point. The vents on the bottom may also be more likely to allow debris to enter than would vents on the vertical edges. Many other laptops will have vents on the sides. Those on the underside however, do have an additional purpose to direct cooler air over other critical components first, like RAM and the hard disk. The fan still seems to struggle with the amount of air allowed to get in without modification.
Mutilate its bottom - Option 5:
Earlier in this thread is a DIY summary on making more vent holes specifically to get more cooler air over the heat sink fins, faster using the stock fan. In brief: disassemble your laptop almost completely to get just the bottom plastic case component detatched. Drill some holes under where the fan is normally located. Too many and you will reduce the cool air pulled in to cool components elsewhere, not to mention it will look messier and weaken the case. I would suggest drilling from the inside-out to prevent bending the metal lining. Use a small HSS bit to keep it clean. Go slowly, carefully and wipe down with a damp, not soggy rag to pick up any metal shavings or dust before reassembling. This mod has had possibly the best results for cooling my laptop. Kudos for the smart individual for posting that picture. Looks more uniform than my job too.
Reduce unwanted intake - Option 6:
Don't put your laptop on dust traps like a long-pile carpet. Put it on something flat and ridgid, or be careful where you position it on your lap. If you've done the case mod above, you can position the far left corner on your knee to allow cooler air to reach the holes. Get a cooling pad. A tip for those wanting a pad with fans in - it works better if the fans blow up on to the base of the laptop, this gets cooler air to where a lot of air intake will occur. I got one from Startech with four fans in. They all sucked air away, so opened it, cut it up a little, used some epoxy to reattach the fans, put back together and it works now, a little better.
Overall, look after it and it should last.
Some other things I have noticed:
The volume output does seem limited with the built in speakers (despite every tweak and hack I've tried). Rather disappointed, I vaguely remember that with the first buggy drivers, it was alright. Haven't yet found a solution to this.
Quicklaunch button drivers
The latest drivers don't seem to support all the Fn mappings correctly. Most noteably the Windows sleep option mapping rarely works. This could be software conflict however, it happens more often than not across several versions of the driver software. I've given up on this at the moment. The homepage mapping was tedious to get going with a registry change but, it is easy enough.
AMD AHCI drivers
Although Vista and 7 natively support the AMD AHCI drivers, updating them to the latest on the AMD website was awkward. Too many BSODs getting this to work but, managed it through removing, cleaning out and specifically installing them via device manager, with several safe mode boots and reboots. This might work for you first time or, you may not bother. There's little if any noticeable improvement.
Phoenix/Insyde BIOS Disaster Recovery
Most USB flash drives are too large to format FAT16 as they are, so to reduce it you'll need a working Vista or 7 machine (in XP or earlier diskpart doesn't recognise removable drives).
- Run 'diskpart' from a command console (cmd):
- 'list disk' [Enter]
- 'select disk 1' (or whichever is the flash device) [Enter]
- 'clean' [Enter]
- 'create partition primary size=100' (100Mb I thought was a good round number) [Enter]
- 'exit' [Enter]
- Format the drive as FAT as normal
- Copy the latest BIOS update files (ROM files - use the efi sig file from the HP package in the ROM.cab file, just rename the rom and sig files according to the BIOS type) 68XXX.sig and 68XXX.bin to a new folder 'Hewlett-Packard\BIOS\current' on the flash drive
- Take out the battery from the bricked laptop
- Unplug AC supply
- Plug in flash drive
- Hold windows+B keys
- Plug in AC supply
- Power on
- Keep holding windows+B for a few more seconds
- You may see the CAPS lock or other LEDs flashing differently than before
- It will start flashing the ROM which will take a couple of minutes
- You must leave the laptop to do this, even if you end up leaving it for much longer than you expect
- Then it will look as if it's doing nothing for a few moments
- Then it will shut down (if not, wait for 30 minutes and unplug AC, be prepared to do this again)
- It will stay off for about 15 seconds
- It will turn back on and hopefully be working like new
- Remove the flash drive
- Shut down
- Put the battery back in