Z640 PSU Fan replacement. What replacement fan should I use?

[hybrid3]

Hello,

My Z640 is running fine & silent, except for the PSU fan which is noise despite running at low RPM's. It sounds like it's worn out.

The fan is a AVC ds09225r12h and it's available in used condition but I'd rather have a new unit. 

What replacement fan should I go for? There are of course plenty of 92*25mm fans with a 4pin connector (which I believe is standard pinout). The PSU fan has a specified RPM range between 1000 and 4000 rpm but I have a hard time finding any 3rd party high quality fans such as Noctua meeting these requirements since their maximum rpm is more like 2000 rpm.

Will I be getting "low rpm" warnings with a fan with lower max RPM? Or as the fan seems to be mostly idling anyway, would any high quality fan with roughly the same minimum RPM do?

Or is it still possible to get a HP replacement fan?

[DGroves]

the used hp fan is preferred since no specs are available you may not be able to get a exact match

hp tends to use fans with aggressive pwm breaking and using a non hp fan can result in a non hp fan running to slow

https://www.amazon.com/9225-DS09225R12H-0-41A-4Wire-Case/dp/B00LXAFVUA

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-AVC-DS09225R12H-PWM-temperature-control-fan-4pin-12V-0-41A-92-92-25mm-X...

[SDH · Accepted solution]

Not sure if you're in the US but the US eBay shows "brand new" ones from where they are made... China.  If you're hesitant to buy one for about $10.00 USD from China you could buy a $58.00 USD one from Australia.  The thing is... these are just too low cost to be worth counterfeiting.  Shipping cost is low so it will take some weeks to get here.  Read the details in the ad and look at the seller's feedback.  Take a look at what you get if you search for "AVC DS09225R12H new":

A number of the ones you can see if you search for "AVC DS09225R12H HP" will have the usual brownish HP style 4-pin plug end.  The PWM wiring convention is from pin 1-4 ground, 12VDC power, rotor speed signal in to motherboard, PWM control signal out from motherboard to rotor, with the colors pretty much standardized as black, yellow, green, blue at the plug end.

The generic PWM plug has 3 plastic ridges unlike the HP one above with only 2 (one at each edge).  For the generic style one you can shave off the internal eccentric 3rd ridge carefully.  Don't cut yourself.  I have no idea what your fan plug end looks like.

Not sure if you know you can carefully depress the tiny metal locking tab for each of the 4 wires and change the plug end to what you have already.  This is tricky.

Finally, there are some odd plug ends that are shorter than the HP/generic PWM type, as shown below.  Not sure if the metal termination is identical on each wire as HP/generic PWM plugs have.

I do agree with DGroves that using a used fan will likely serve you very well, but if you're willing to wait for a slow boat from China a new one would be great.  Why not start with a used one and get a brand new one in at about $10.00 for backup?

[hybrid3]

Great information, thank you very much!

I'm getting one straight from China. I'm not in a hurry, I think it will last a lot longer but I would just like to do what I can to reduce the overall noise level as the rest of the workstation is really quiet. 

I'm in Sweden so I just have to pay some import taxes. I was just a little bit worried about fake unit but it does make sense that it's too cheap to be subject to counterfeiting. 

If needed, I will replace the connector by either cutting & re-soldering the wires or attaching a new connector. 

Thanks! 

[SDH]

To remove the small metal standard wire terminations from each plug hole I note the colors of each wire first, or label each if they are all black (which HP does a lot).  Then using a fine pointed end of some appropriate tool I press down on the thin delicate metal tab to flatten it down while gently pulling the wire out away from the plug end.  It slides out, and the metal tab will be depressed. 

I then use a very fine blade (scalpel or razer blade/utility knife blade) to elevate that tab just a bit so it will engage again when it is pushed back into its proper hole in the new plug.  Be gentle... you can break the metal tab off if you are not careful.  When you slide it back in the slightly lifted tab end will engage in the plastic slot of the plug hole and the wire will not slip out now with a gentle pull.