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HP Recommended
Pavilion 590-p0027na
Microsoft Windows 10 (64-bit)

Hi guys, I was looking for some help on installing a PSU.

I have a HP Pavilion 590-p0027na computer which I am looking to install a gtx 1050ti into. As I have already added an SSD this means increasing the PSU from a 180w to a 300w unit.

HP are out of stock of their larger PSU so I have purchased a Gamemax ATX TFX Series GT-300 as an alternative replacement. I have managed to secure the PSU in the case, however when I have gone to plug everything back in the 4+4 lead (which is the only lead from the PSU the HP sunflower motherboard accepts, broken into two 4 pin connectors) will only fit the right way on one connector. 

This is because the square-rounded pin pattern on the two 4pin leads is opposite. So the first lead connects and clips on no problem, but I have to rotate the second lead 90 degrees to line up the square pins, meaning the clip doesn't connect as the two parts of the clip on the lead and the port are on different facings. 

 

I've read as long as rounded are in rounded and square are in square all is fine .This is true with my set up, but it still just feels wrong!

 

Appreciate any and all help on this!

9 REPLIES 9
HP Recommended

the original hp supply,  did thetwo  4 pin connectors have 2 black (ground) and 2 brown (+12) wires?

if so use this to connect the new plugs which will have 2 black (ground) and 2 yellow (+12)

 

simply make sure the 2 black  and 2 brown/yellow wires go to the same pins on the motherboards two 4 pin connectors

ignore any orientation clips, since you are using a non HP pwr supply and simply make sure the Ground/+12 wires are connected to the same pins on the motherboard 4 pin connectors

 

last, i don't know if hp uses a non standard ATX power supply pinout for this motherboard, (many new systems are custom)

 

if your system is using a non ATX pinout, the system will not power on, or will power on/off right away if you get this, remove the power supply and wait till you can buy the 310 watt HP unit

HP Recommended

Thanks a lot for the reply .

 

I changed the head, made sure the yellow and black wires (they were the same layout and colour on old and new) connected to the same ports on the mobo as the original and absutely nothing happened when I tried to power up.

 

Someone suggested this may be due to a safety pin on the 24 pin connector which needs to be connected in order for the PSU to power up (he showed me a video of how you can overwrite this with a paperclip). Do you think this may be the problem .if so, any way to do anything about if as I categorically refuse to run my pc with a paperclip stuck in the PSU!! Haha

HP Recommended

no, the person who recomended shorting the pwr on line witha paper clip is doing you a diservice and putting your motherbpard/cpu/ram and power supply at risk of serious damage

 

as i said, many newer HP systems are now using non ATX standard power supplies with diffrent pinouts on the 24 pin connector and the no power on with the replacement ATX unit is either due to this or a miswire of the current atx supply

 

personally, i would simply wait in 6-10 weeks you will be able to order the correct supply

HP Recommended

Thanks again for the response. 

 

I believe everything you have said is correct. It I knew the wait would be 8-10 weeks I'd be happy to sit on my thumbs, but HP have advised they do not stock this item. All European providers do not have this part listed (no PSU units are listed for and of the 590-pxxxx models) and email enquires have just returned generic '' we are unable to provide this item's.

 

If I can't rig a standard ATX PSU I to this rig, it's looking good like a new mobo and case job! Which would be a shame seems as the pc is relatively new and the components are undamaged.

HP Recommended

since this supply was sold in many diffrent model systems in europe and the US, i believe hp will have to make at least one more run of these power supplies to service warranty claims

 

it's also likely that newer hp models will use these supplies since desigining a replacement unit and certifing it is not a trival and cheap task

 

so again,....wait and if after the time you alotted it's not available then do the new system route

HP Recommended

It appears I may have been stressing for zero reason .

 

Curious to see what I was drawing I purchased a watt reader plug and ran some scenarios last night and it seems to me some serious dark wizardry is afoot. Here is my spec;

 

HP sunflower mobo

Ryzen 2200G

Gigabyte GTX 1050ti (single fan)

8gb vengeance Corsair ddr4 @ 2666

4g Samsung ddr4 @ 2666

Terabyte HDD sata @ 7200rpm

125gb hynix SSD m.2

2x 60mm fan (case, PSU)

1x 90mm fan (coolmaxx heatsink)

180w gold rated 90% PSU

HP wireless keyboard

Entertainment tech wireless mouse

Xbox wireless adapter for Windows 10

Usb to dual micro usb plugged into two rechargable Xbox controller battery packs .

 

Obviously I didn't whack everything in at once turn it on and hope for the best, but the initial reading were so low I decided to plug everything in that is ever connected to my pc . My draw readings are as follows;

 

Standby/sleep - 0.5 - 1.3w

Boot - 50 - 65w

On (idle) - 30 - 33w

Chrome (streaming) - 80-90w

AIDA64 stress (CPU, RAM, DRIVES, GPU) - 121 - 123w

Doom on high/ultra (53fps) - 100-130w

Furmark (60fps) - 100 - 103w

3D Mark TimeSpy - 100-105w

ADIA64 stress (CPU, RAM, DISKS) + Furmark (59fps) - 132 - 135w

 

Ok, so the last one was overkill but I was convinced my GPU wasn't hitting 100%. All tests minimum 30min (AIDA64 tests 2hrs) 

 

Task manager is confirming ram, CPU and gpu are all hitting and sustaining 100% (90% for ram). After 2 hrs stability testing on AIDA64 with furmark running I was hitting a CPU temp of 69 with the GPU at 74.

 

These numbers defy all my understanding of consumption .I've seen pcs idle higher than this does under severe stress. I've checked the meter is reading correct, my E rated 900w microwave is reading at nearly 1400w.

 

If the PSU is rated at 90% efficiency, I calculated the PSU is operating at around 65% capacity with as much draw as I can throw at it. This is pretty much in the sweet spot for a PSU isn't it? (40-70% load for peak efficiency).

 

So basically yeah, I don't need a bigger PSU. Apparently!

 

 

HP Recommended

few people have bothered to take the time (and money) you have invested to see if a upgrade is required i wish more would!!

 

your tests do appear to show a upgrade may not be required at this time with the hardware you currently have installed.

 

just keep in mind that while total draw is under the supply's limit it is possible to overload a power supplies  +5/+12/+3.3 rail while still being under the total wattage so if you change cpu's or add more drives/ram recheck the consumption

 

looking at your motherboard, it appears that this HP system is using a single +12 rail for most of it's needs with the +3.3 being  drawn/converted down from the main +12 rail this is what is termed a double conversion supply

 

most power supplies in systems have seperate power rails and/or the motherboard will require +5/+12/+3.3/ and  -12

HP Recommended

I assume the PSU only had a 12v rail based on the connections (the P4's have only 12v) just I was working on the assumption this specific PSU would be rated to 180w solely on the 12v rail - might this not be the case if HP have only modded a standard PSU to just have the 12v rail connected? It's very difficult to find out specifics on the PSU online.

 

Looking deeper into the low draw values, it looks as if the CPU total packet is only reaching a maximum of 22w during 100% usage. It's rated to 65w. I have disabled the raven ridge onboard graphics, so this should account for some reduction in power but 45w seems a lot. The GPU is drawing 75-80w as expected at 100%. 

 

There is obviously no overclock applied to either GPU or CPU with the power budget being so tight, but I can't see anyone else getting reporting such low draws on the ryzen 2200g. The BIOS is like fort Knox on the Sunflower so there's no having a poke around - do you think HP could have enabled some kind of power saving feature via the mobo? I mean, its hitting 100% usage so I'm not worried about the low draw, but my curiosity is piqued! 

 

 

HP Recommended

since i don't have this system or anything like it i'm not going to make any guesses on it other than  my comment about the power supply/motherboard being mostly a +12 design newer intel cpu's do however have onboard power regulation so systems designed with these cpu's can have less  power regulation circuits on the motherboard

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