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sperry Honor Student
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I purchased new HP Pavailion desktop a month ago.  I connected my existing monitor - HP pavilion f1903 (purchased in 2005) and had no problems.  This afternoon all was fine and then I came to check email and the power button was flashing (orange).  The screen remained black even after touching the keyboard and moving the mouse.  I pressed the power button off and the back on and no change, other than the light going off.  I discounnected ALL cables and power and reconnected.  I have connected an old monitor with same power cords and cable. 

 

Is there a solution or do I need to buy a new monitor now.

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nyfred2 Honor Student
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I have the same problem with my HP Pavilian f1903 monitor. I hate to call HP about this problem and paid them at least $25.00 just so they can tell me to have it services or repair. DHA!! I will never purchase another HP produts as their support sucks unless you pay for it.
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Xeschylus Student
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Hello,

 

I know this is an old post, but in case other's need to know.

 

I am suffering from the same problem, it appears the inverter board for the backlight is malfunctioning and to my knowledge either some soldering joints are damaged.  Or 1 or more of the transistors have been damaged.  To diagnose this, you must remove the inverter board(had 4 connectors coming from it that go to the screen) and search the soldering joints, looking for cracks and such and attempt to repair.  And also test the transistors resistance using the appropriate equipment and replace as neccessary.

 

This is a simular issue I believe, I will be testing it out myself as I attempt to repair my f1903.

 

http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7590_102-0.html?messageID=2902022

 

Do research, and you will find plenty of information.  Hope all works out for you. 🙂

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Randyincv Honor Student
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For the F1903 Blackout Problem...

Read this entire message before starting!

 

This servicing should be done only by persons familiar with component level PC Board repair. Unplug the monitor! Disconnect the signal cable prior to starting any work. High Voltage is present when the monitor is plugged in.

 

Remove the 4 black screws on the back and remove the stand, then the 4 black screws in the case that hold the back onto the Bezel. Lay the monitor face down and using your fingernails begin to pop the bezel away from the back case. Once it's popped away a little, use a large, wide flat bladed screwdriver and push gently in the edge seam towards the center of the monitor to release the latches. DON'T TWIST the screwdriver or you'll mar the Bezel and case. Lift the Back case off and be careful because the front switchboard is attached to the front Bezel by 4 screws. Remove those screws, gently pull the Bezel off and turn the Monitor face down. Peel back the foil tape and using some stout needle nose pliers or hemostats gently pull the 4 Plugs out that provide power to the CCFL (Backlights) Rremove the 2 machine screws in the side of the frame and you should be able to lift the LCD Partway up to get to the inverter board, be careful not to stress the cable going to the LCD, you can unplug that but it's a pain to plug back in. The inverter board is the board the 4 backlight plugs were plugged into, remove the 2 machine screws, unplug the connector on the inverter and you can pull the board out to work on it. (You’ll likely need a second person to do this unless you remove the LCD after disconnecting it)

 

While Bulged Capacitors might be a culprit in the blackout issue, what I have found more prevalently is bad soldering on the inverter board that supplies power to the 4 backlights for the LCD. Using a lighted magnifier, look at the inverter board for cold solder joints (grey and dull looking) or joints that look fractured or show evidence of arcing. Proper solder joints look shiny without pitting or other irregularities.

 

Here’s a good tutorial on proper soldering techniques: http://www.technick.net/public/code/cp_dpage.php?aiocp_dp=how_to_solder

 

Remove the solder on any bad solder joints with solder wick and replace with fresh rosin core solder. There are 2 Gray, rectangular, boxy looking .33Mfd Capacitors on the board. The plating on the leads apparently didn't solder well. I removed those Capacitors and polished the leads with a fine emery paper to make them more solderable. When I pulled them off the board, there was evidence of arcing under one of them. I soldered the capacitors back and then replaced all 4 of the C5706 (2SC5706) transistors on the board. You might need to slightly enlarge the holes in the PC Board to accommodate the replacement transistor's leads (I did) The transistors can be had on EBay for $1 apiece. I would replace all 4 transistors on general principal. (so you might want to wait until you have those in hand prior to disassembling the monitor.) Reverse the process for reassembling the monitor. It took me about 90 minutes start to finish, opening it, repairing the board, reassembling and testing it. Considering that I bought the monitor nonfunctional for $35 my time was well spent, the Monitor has been working flawlessly ever since. I hope this all makes sense. These monitors are VERY nice when working properly. Good Luck.

vanderkamp34791 Student
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h.p f1903 monitor has a blank screen and a flashing yellow on button  can it be fixed?

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Associate Professor
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Are you sure that the source is working?
Also what resolution is set? Is it right for the hp monitor?

Else - try to reset monitor to factory configuration.
Unplug monitor from power and hold the power button for 60 sec.
Then plug the monitor back in and power it up.

V.
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Rocketann Student
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What do u mean
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