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DV8T 1100 - Touch button (bass/treble bar and wireless) - I NEED THIS PART HELLO ???
Replies (13)
Posts: 1
Member Since: ‎11-14-2010
Message 11 of 14 (1,312 Views)

Re: DV8T 1100 - Touch button (bass/treble bar and wireless) - I NEED THIS PART HELLO ???

for all ho have this issue: touch bar is lighting but when pressing a button and don't work plz turn off the laptop and remove the battery for at least 10min and then reput the battery all the buttons should work then i've tried this and it workded !!

Posts: 89
Member Since: ‎01-07-2010
Message 12 of 14 (1,199 Views)

Re: DV8T 1100 - Touch button (bass/treble bar and wireless) - I NEED THIS PART HELLO ???

It is NOT a software or driver issue... Updated drivers may help but they wont solve the problem. The main problem that really got to me is the Wifi turning itself off. I permanently fixed my laptop and found the actual cause. I am an engineer and I design and research electronics test equipment. I am actually very surprised that HP has not invested a small amount of resources to solve this design flaw. I was able to do it in a few hours along with some research. Other users have done a fix that is almost like this but mine is a permanent and complete solution. After applying my fix, I found that my Wifi signal strength seems to have improved.


For once I can say that my DV8T works without any problems. I no longer have to avoid using the volume or mute button...


Keep in mind that this fix will only work for the design defect that it is meant to solve. If you have other contributing issues they may still remain. The cause that is addressed by this fix is the most common issue so chances are that if you follow the instructions, you will have good results.


Here is my post from another thread on HP about my fix:


I just finished putting it back together and it works perfectly! On my system it was very easy to test because when I pushed just above the F9 key the mute and Wifi would go crazy %100 percent of the time. Well, it does not malfunction, no matter where I press or how hard. I can press any of the capacitive touch buttons without any issues for the first time ever.


There are two parts to the problem. The first is the static grounding and shielding. The second is the exposed metal end caps of the LIF connector. This is the connector that the ribbon cable plugs into on the LED board. When I pressed on the LED before the revision, the exposed metal case of the connector would transfer the static charge to the housing just below it and cause a misfire of the cap touch circuit, triggering an actuation when it was not desired. This also occured randomly when the static charge potential reached high enough levels and jumped to ground also causing an unwanted actuation.


The solution was to shield the ribbon cable with high temp thin foil tape and increase the surface area of the existing foil tape ground pad that it rests on. I also secured the ribbon cable to the ground pad with additional strips of foil tape. Next I covered the LIF connector with Kapton tape to insulate it but left enough room to still plug the cable in. Once the metal connector housing was insulated I placed thin strips of foil tape over it still leaving the connector open for the ribbon cable. A good reference to use is the plastic slide lock that is pushed in to secure the end of the cable to the LIF. Cover only the plastic/metal housing of the LIF but not the slide lock or else you will not be able to secure the cable into the connector. Cover the kapton with foil tape to shield and ground it. You also do onto want to cause anything to short out on the foil tape that is being added.


The idea of taping the ribbon cable down to the existing small section of foil shielding is not a new idea but the exposed metal end caps of the LIF has not been mentioned. This is the main reason that most people have failed when performing the "tape down" method of the cable to the foil ground pad. My cable was actually secured well to the pad with adhesive. The only problem was that the shielding on the cable was not long enough and the ends of the LIF (low insertion force) connector where exposed.


I also placed some shielding on the under side of the entire cap touch board (LED board) and over the round mini sub woofer as well as wrapping the power and wifi harness to limit the EMI to the cap touch board (LED board). This can be done by placing foil tape over the channel that the wire harnesses reside in. I am not sure how much the shielding over the harness really had because usually that kind of problem causes a lack of response and not auto actuation. The foil tape shielding that I placed on the under side of the LED board did help to provide a nice path to ground for any residual static charge so I would be sure to include that step but you can likely omit the harness wrap.


After taking X-rays of the LED board I could see that the design and fab was actually very good so that left the static issue. performing the above will resolve the problem as long as you do not have some other underlying issue such as a defective LED board or power supply. After finding the cause I can almost for certain conclude that the Blu-Ray drive is not part of the problem.


On another note, I found a lot of loose screws and adding in the thin layers of foil tape made the entire keyboard and LED button panel feel much more robust and rigid. Almost as if it was designed correctly. Unfortunately the loose screws did not end up being the cause of the problem nor did the flexing of the LED board. This is ruled out due to the fact that I could trigger a false actuation without coming in direct contact with the panel. Just getting close enough to it with the tip of my finger would cause it to go nuts, all with no actual load being applied to the assembly.


That is all I can include for tonight but I will post some more info later. I did not take any pictures since I had planned on taking it apart again not expecting to fix it on the first try.


I am looking into trying to design & manufacture a kit that would come with die cut shielding gaskets or at least put out the info for anyone that wants to get the capacitive touch buttons working once and for all. It is not very hard to apply the foil tape but it is not fool proof since everyone may interpret and apply the fix differently. The goal is to put out a kit as well as the needed information that would allow a repeatable retrofit.


The panels are a little scary to take off since you feel like they are going to break but they do come off with a little patience.


Let me know what everyone thinks.




Top Student
Posts: 6
Member Since: ‎04-28-2011
Message 13 of 14 (1,088 Views)

Re: DV8T 1100 - Touch button (bass/treble bar and wireless) - I NEED THIS PART HELLO ???

They should have recalled all these units as it was a design fault HP given all owners of this model a nightmare!Im sure they will suffer eventually because of their stupidity!!!!!!!!!!!

Posts: 13
Member Since: ‎09-22-2010
Message 14 of 14 (929 Views)

Re: DV8T 1100 - Touch button (bass/treble bar and wireless) - I NEED THIS PART HELLO ???

[ Edited ]



My original laptop my fiance destroyed. She bought me a new one... and it had the same issue of staticity.


I downloaded drivers and that seemed to resolve. Doesn't help me believe my original assessment.


So in good faith, I bought my mom a refurbished dv8t returnable only after 7 days. 14 days later the touch button bar starts going haywire with static problems.


I trusted HP and they burnt me twice.


Is there a repair kit available like the last poster mentioned?


I need to fix my mothers laptop. She is hurt by this mess also.


Really stinks.


HP dont care. Very sad company. They own up to nothing. they should have recalled and fixed them for everyone free charge.



[Personal Information Removed]




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