Note on archived topics.
09-27-2010 07:48 PM
Since it sounds like there isn't any solution at all for the issue where the touchbar turns the wireless connection on and off, and since I'm hearing conflicting causes, such as the wireless card overheating, etc. Would I be able to use an External wireless card and not have these problems? Or will I still have the same problems if I buy and use an external wireless card. Because this is getting very annoying, and I can't afford to waste time sending this laptop into HP so they can do absolutely nothing to fix the problem. Even though this isn't the only problem this laptop seems to have. Really Disappointed HP, I'll probably stay away from your laptops for a long time.
10-23-2010 07:33 PM
you have to take apar the computer and clean the silver cable where it grounds the sensar bar and use a peice of scotch tape to hold it down to the ground...
after that will work perfect 🙂 i did it and i was loosing signal off on off on off on
12-05-2010 01:52 PM
So far, this has worked: I first removed the Wireless Assistant software completely from the computer. It is a totally unnecessary program and should not be reinstalled. I uninstalled the Intel WiFi Link 5100 AGN (Device Manager, Network Adapters). I then disconnected the card, removed it and cleaned the wire terminals and finger contacts on the card with alcohol. I reinstalled the card and let the driver install itself. So far, I've had no problem but only time will tell.
Also, I solved the tone control problem by removing it from the the "Startup" tab in msconfig as soon as I bought the computer. It is unnecessary if you use a third party audio program like iTunes, Real Player or others.
By the way, the assistance I got from HP tech support in India was totally worthless. The so-called tech didn't listen, kept telling me to update the BIOS and reload the wireless driver (which I kept telling her I had already done). Her next brilliant idea was to "recover", in other words, reformat, the hard drive. I kept trying to explain to her that that was not a good option because of the time required to reinstall all of my software. I asked her for her supervisor and she claimed that he was "not available" and that he would call me back. Of course, he never did. I called back and after the usual long wait was connected with a gentleman in the US. He listened, understood what I was saying, brought his supervisor into the discussion and ordered me a new wireless card just in case it was a hardware issue. He was great!
02-13-2011 03:05 PM
The grounding of the cable is part of it but there are a few other things to do in order to get rid of the problem for good. I was able to come up with a working solution to the design defect. Below is a copy of my post with the repair info.
The main problem that really got to me is the Wifi turning itself off. I permanently fixed my laptop and found the actual cause. I am an engineer and I design and research electronics test equipment. I am actually very surprised that HP has not invested a small amount of resources to solve this design flaw. I was able to do it in a few hours along with some research. Other users have done a fix that is almost like this but mine is a permanent and complete solution. After applying my fix, I found that my Wifi signal strength seems to have improved.
For once I can say that my DV8T works without any problems. I no longer have to avoid using the volume or mute button...
Keep in mind that this fix will only work for the design defect that it is meant to solve. If you have other contributing issues they may still remain. The cause that is addressed by this fix is the most common issue so chances are that if you follow the instructions, you will have good results.
Here is my post from another thread on HP about my fix:
I just finished putting it back together and it works perfectly! On my system it was very easy to test because when I pushed just above the F9 key the mute and Wifi would go crazy %100 percent of the time. Well, it does not malfunction, no matter where I press or how hard. I can press any of the capacitive touch buttons without any issues for the first time ever.
There are two parts to the problem. The first is the static grounding and shielding. The second is the exposed metal end caps of the LIF connector. This is the connector that the ribbon cable plugs into on the LED board. When I pressed on the LED before the revision, the exposed metal case of the connector would transfer the static charge to the housing just below it and cause a misfire of the cap touch circuit, triggering an actuation when it was not desired. This also occured randomly when the static charge potential reached high enough levels and jumped to ground also causing an unwanted actuation.
The solution was to shield the ribbon cable with high temp thin foil tape and increase the surface area of the existing foil tape ground pad that it rests on. I also secured the ribbon cable to the ground pad with additional strips of foil tape. Next I covered the LIF connector with Kapton tape to insulate it but left enough room to still plug the cable in. Once the metal connector housing was insulated I placed thin strips of foil tape over it still leaving the connector open for the ribbon cable. A good reference to use is the plastic slide lock that is pushed in to secure the end of the cable to the LIF. Cover only the plastic/metal housing of the LIF but not the slide lock or else you will not be able to secure the cable into the connector. Cover the kapton with foil tape to shield and ground it. You also do onto want to cause anything to short out on the foil tape that is being added.
The idea of taping the ribbon cable down to the existing small section of foil shielding is not a new idea but the exposed metal end caps of the LIF has not been mentioned. This is the main reason that most people have failed when performing the "tape down" method of the cable to the foil ground pad. My cable was actually secured well to the pad with adhesive. The only problem was that the shielding on the cable was not long enough and the ends of the LIF (low insertion force) connector where exposed.
I also placed some shielding on the under side of the entire cap touch board (LED board) and over the round mini sub woofer as well as wrapping the power and wifi harness to limit the EMI to the cap touch board (LED board). This can be done by placing foil tape over the channel that the wire harnesses reside in. I am not sure how much the shielding over the harness really had because usually that kind of problem causes a lack of response and not auto actuation. The foil tape shielding that I placed on the under side of the LED board did help to provide a nice path to ground for any residual static charge so I would be sure to include that step but you can likely omit the harness wrap.
After taking X-rays of the LED board I could see that the design and fab was actually very good so that left the static issue. performing the above will resolve the problem as long as you do not have some other underlying issue such as a defective LED board or power supply. After finding the cause I can almost for certain conclude that the Blu-Ray drive is not part of the problem.
On another note, I found a lot of loose screws and adding in the thin layers of foil tape made the entire keyboard and LED button panel feel much more robust and rigid. Almost as if it was designed correctly. Unfortunately the loose screws did not end up being the cause of the problem nor did the flexing of the LED board. This is ruled out due to the fact that I could trigger a false actuation without coming in direct contact with the panel. Just getting close enough to it with the tip of my finger would cause it to go nuts, all with no actual load being applied to the assembly.
That is all I can include for tonight but I will post some more info later. I did not take any pictures since I had planned on taking it apart again not expecting to fix it on the first try.
I am looking into trying to design & manufacture a kit that would come with die cut shielding gaskets or at least put out the info for anyone that wants to get the capacitive touch buttons working once and for all. It is not very hard to apply the foil tape but it is not fool proof since everyone may interpret and apply the fix differently. The goal is to put out a kit as well as the needed information that would allow a repeatable retrofit.
The panels are a little scary to take off since you feel like they are going to break but they do come off with a little patience.
Let me know what everyone thinks.
02-20-2011 04:44 AM
Try the fix I posted here. I had the same issue.
Brian if your problem comes back and i suspect it will try it also
02-20-2011 02:09 PM
Sorry Spike it will not work,
It will not fix the quick launch button problems.That command is native to windows operating systems and the touch button problem happens regardless of what operating system is running on the laptop.
Users have removed windows and did a clean install of Ubuntu and the buttons still misfired. This proves that it is not a software/driver or bios issue. If it was software related a system recovery would have fixed it and as many users have found, it does not. You just end up losing all of your data.
HP screwed up big time with this one as they have recently with many of the HP laptops.
The capacitive touch panel issue is a lot less active in the winter when humidity is low so it is easy to incorrectly identify a software solution. Other users have done the same thing, only to post a few days later that it still occurs.
It is not software or driver related. It is a %100 hardware design flaw. This is what I do for a living so I am sure of it. When I pushed on the mute or volume slider multiple times it would shut the wifi off and now it does not. I was also able to test my laptop very easily because it would disable wifi %100 of the time when I pushed just above the F9 key on the touch panel. After the grounding fix I can push everywhere without a misfire.
If it still occurs, even only a few times a month, it is not fixed. After I fixed the grounding it has worked %100 correctly with not one misfire.
I have already done that exact command as well as many others and they had no impact on the buttons firing off.
You could be having true wifi issues unrelated to the touch button problem and that is what that command may have fixed.I have used it to fix actual network issues. You will have mute/volume/wifi issues again unless you correct the grounding problem. Please read the other threads that I posted this in. The fix I came up with is the only one that has really worked. Other users can try your fix but they will be back to report that it didnt work. I wish it was that easy. The problem with the buttons is unrelated to the wifi adaptor. Removing tone control will stop you from seeing the treble & bass flash on the screen but not the mute/volume/wifi auto-actuation. It may appear that you have fixed the other button issues because of this.
The lack of grounding and shielding will not be exactly the same for every DV8, some will be better some will be worse. Not every DV8 will need to have the added shielding but most will. Keep this in mind and decide if opening up the laptop is a route that you want to take but I can say for sure that it will permanently fix the problem.
02-21-2011 06:54 PM
I don't seem to have that problem. I have tried to duplicate it but without sucess.
Wish you took some pics before and after. I am into electronics and have no fear in taking my panel off to see if HP added a fix.
The thread I started was for an entirely different issue. I was trying to avoid the hardware fix you applied. I was leaning toward heat issues but the "SAF" fix worked and I posted it.
HP managed to get another 300 bucks out of me for the extended warranty, That was insurance if the "network stack (SAF) didnt help. fortunately it did. Now I feel comfortable installing "vSphere" as i dont have a hardware issue.
I can take the before pix if you need to do your tutorial for the community Let me know.
02-22-2011 10:40 AM
I am sorry I thought you were talking about the touch button misfire issue.
Heat does affect the misfire problem but it does not cause it. Most users find that the misfire occurs from a cold start as well as after prolonged running times. It all has to do with environmental variables and temperature is one of them. If your ground issue is not too bad, then an increased temperature may be enough to trigger it. On a system that had a horrible ground, such as mine, it was bad enough to misfire all of the time.
Some systems respond to pushing just above the F9 key and some do not. It depends on where the static discharges from. Every computer has the OEM shielding applied in slightly different positions.
I also bought the extended coverage and now I wish I did not. I read so many posts from users that sent the laptop to HP for repair and after a few months it started to misfire again.
Can you see what the date codes on the LED panel are? There may also be some firmware info.
They may have produced new LED panels that have improved static shielding material. I did not get a chance to test the OEM polyamide based shielding but its possible that it is substandard or is not the correct type for the application.
02-24-2011 12:02 PM
I'm sorry, but I'm having issues with my pavillion DV7 and they sound similar to what you are saying your issues are with the DV8? The wireless will just be gone, and the touch sensor will be unresponsive. The quick solution is to disable the wireless from the network devices, then re-enable. However, this is temporary and it always turns itself off again.
Is this the same issue with the next model laptop? Is a simple solution to disable the touch sensor?