Note on archived topics.
12-15-2010 05:08 PM
Thanks this worked for me.
The Solution : Alcohol ! Thats right i used "Isopropyl Alcohol" from my medicine cabinet (normally used to disinfect minor cuts and wounds), to clean the surface of the affected buttons, with a paper napkin. 10 seconds, and viola, problem solved !
12-31-2010 02:04 PM
you have to take apar the computer and clean the silver cable where it grounds the sensar bar and use a peice of scotch tape to hold it down to the ground...
after that will work perfect 🙂 i did it and i was loosing signal off on off on off on
Had the same problem for the last 6 months and this is the first hardware solution I have seen that seems to work. I will keep you posted over the coming weeks.
01-05-2011 01:42 AM
I went to msconfig. 'Start up' tab. Disabled 'HP Wireless Assistant'. Saved. Rebooted. Problem solved!
In my opinion, The HP wireless assisant was conflicting with something else (treble/bass software?) Software issue!! Not Hardware issue! Try this before you dismantle your computer!!
Please note that I did not disable the 'HP Tone Control' and this function still works. My wireless on/off button still works too!!
Also I believe that the HP wireless assistant is unnecessary and redundant anyway as windows has a built in wireless manager. And, Bluetooth feature can still be turned off and on through my bluetooth tray icon. And, system should run faster with one less process running. This seems to be the perfect simplest fix! Hope it works for you all!!
01-05-2011 04:57 PM - edited 01-05-2011 05:00 PM
Using msconfig Disabling 'HP Wireless Assistant' from startup, aaving and rebooting solved my problem too. I've had no issues since removing it from the startup programs.
Thanks!!!!! That was a very irritating problem.
02-13-2011 12:17 PM
It is NOT a software or driver issue... The only issue that is partially software related is the tone control but it is caused by a hardware issue. The main problem that really got to me is the Wifi turning itself off. I permanently fixed my laptop and found the actual cause. I am an engineer and I design and research electronics test equipment. I am actually very surprised that HP has not invested a small amount of resources to solve this design flaw. I was able to do it in a few hours along with some research. Other users have done a fix that is almost like this but mine is a permanent and complete solution. After applying my fix, I found that my Wifi signal strength seems to have improved.
For once I can say that my DV8T works without any problems. I no longer have to avoid using the volume or mute button...
Keep in mind that this fix will only work for the design defect that it is meant to solve. If you have other contributing issues they may still remain. The cause that is addressed by this fix is the most common issue so chances are that if you follow the instructions, you will have good results.
Here is my post from another thread on HP about my fix:
I just finished putting it back together and it works perfectly! On my system it was very easy to test because when I pushed just above the F9 key the mute and Wifi would go crazy %100 percent of the time. Well, it does not malfunction, no matter where I press or how hard. I can press any of the capacitive touch buttons without any issues for the first time ever.
There are two parts to the problem. The first is the static grounding and shielding. The second is the exposed metal end caps of the LIF connector. This is the connector that the ribbon cable plugs into on the LED board. When I pressed on the LED before the revision, the exposed metal case of the connector would transfer the static charge to the housing just below it and cause a misfire of the cap touch circuit, triggering an actuation when it was not desired. This also occured randomly when the static charge potential reached high enough levels and jumped to ground also causing an unwanted actuation.
The solution was to shield the ribbon cable with high temp thin foil tape and increase the surface area of the existing foil tape ground pad that it rests on. I also secured the ribbon cable to the ground pad with additional strips of foil tape. Next I covered the LIF connector with Kapton tape to insulate it but left enough room to still plug the cable in. Once the metal connector housing was insulated I placed thin strips of foil tape over it still leaving the connector open for the ribbon cable. A good reference to use is the plastic slide lock that is pushed in to secure the end of the cable to the LIF. Cover only the plastic/metal housing of the LIF but not the slide lock or else you will not be able to secure the cable into the connector. Cover the kapton with foil tape to shield and ground it. You also do onto want to cause anything to short out on the foil tape that is being added.
The idea of taping the ribbon cable down to the existing small section of foil shielding is not a new idea but the exposed metal end caps of the LIF has not been mentioned. This is the main reason that most people have failed when performing the "tape down" method of the cable to the foil ground pad. My cable was actually secured well to the pad with adhesive. The only problem was that the shielding on the cable was not long enough and the ends of the LIF (low insertion force) connector where exposed.
I also placed some shielding on the under side of the entire cap touch board (LED board) and over the round mini sub woofer as well as wrapping the power and wifi harness to limit the EMI to the cap touch board (LED board). This can be done by placing foil tape over the channel that the wire harnesses reside in. I am not sure how much the shielding over the harness really had because usually that kind of problem causes a lack of response and not auto actuation. The foil tape shielding that I placed on the under side of the LED board did help to provide a nice path to ground for any residual static charge so I would be sure to include that step but you can likely omit the harness wrap.
After taking X-rays of the LED board I could see that the design and fab was actually very good so that left the static issue. performing the above will resolve the problem as long as you do not have some other underlying issue such as a defective LED board or power supply. After finding the cause I can almost for certain conclude that the Blu-Ray drive is not part of the problem.
On another note, I found a lot of loose screws and adding in the thin layers of foil tape made the entire keyboard and LED button panel feel much more robust and rigid. Almost as if it was designed correctly. Unfortunately the loose screws did not end up being the cause of the problem nor did the flexing of the LED board. This is ruled out due to the fact that I could trigger a false actuation without coming in direct contact with the panel. Just getting close enough to it with the tip of my finger would cause it to go nuts, all with no actual load being applied to the assembly.
That is all I can include for tonight but I will post some more info later. I did not take any pictures since I had planned on taking it apart again not expecting to fix it on the first try.
I am looking into trying to design & manufacture a kit that would come with die cut shielding gaskets or at least put out the info for anyone that wants to get the capacitive touch buttons working once and for all. It is not very hard to apply the foil tape but it is not fool proof since everyone may interpret and apply the fix differently. The goal is to put out a kit as well as the needed information that would allow a repeatable retrofit.
The panels are a little scary to take off since you feel like they are going to break but they do come off with a little patience.
Let me know what everyone thinks.
02-16-2011 03:06 AM
Thanks for posting this. I have had this issue for over a year and despite the unit being replaced it's still there. My unit is now out of warranty and the problem has got steadily worse. I have tried everything except your solution. I have no idea how to disassemble the unit and will struggle to copy what you have done anyway. So if you produce some kind of kit and instructions on how to get into the unit and perform the fix this would be great.
I am not going to say what I think of HP. Their tech's don't even seem to be aware of the problem and now I'm out of warranty they don't want to know. I work on this laptop and it is very frustrating and becoming almost unusable. Why we should have to reply on fellow users to fix this problem is beyond me. If I had the money I would sue them. This issue and the endless calls to support has wasted so much of my time. But as that option is not open to me I will just never buy from HP again.
Anyway,rant over. If you can help with detailed instructions/pics on how to perform this that would be great and I'm sure appreciated by many.
03-06-2011 04:37 PM
I had the same problem and documented what seems to have resolved the issue in my case. I'm running Windows 7 64-bit
Background. New HP DV8 in September 2010. Did not have this TONE CONTROL issue until Late February 2011 (five months and no configuration or software changes during this period). Same symptoms as described in other messages. Treble and Bass control going nuts acting like the touch control was constantly depressed. The wireless was also toggling from off to on sporadically.
Analysis: I would not re-load software or drivers without proof that they are corrupted. Might cause more problems. I wasn't about to disassemble the newer computer to check out grounding of the tone control although it seemed to make sense. The alcohol cleaning suggesting was easy so I tried that to no avail. Since it is winter and the air is dryer (yet i have a humidifier) it made sense that it may be a static electric issue and/or grounding related, but I simply blew several breaths of humid air around the tone control and the beast still continued to activate on it's own. No change so I ruled out static electric/grounding sensitivity.
Software conflict/hardware timing potential (interrupts etc) was a logical suggestion someone made. I noted when running Windows Media Center that the Tone Control works (base and treble change) but the TREBLE and BASS bars do not display on the screen and the issue was not occuring. Hmmm... possible software driver/hardware timing differences when running this app. So...
What seems to have worked to resolve my issue: I simply stopped the TONE CONTROL service, rebooted, and have not had any recurrence for several weeks. Amazing that this made such an imediate change on having this issue.
Method used: (do this next time you have the issue) - I would be interested in your results.
1- press and hold Ctrl-Alt-Del to bring up the menu (windows 7 64 bit)
2- Select "Start Task Manager"
3- Select Image "HPToneCtl.exe" (Description is Tone Control)
4- Press "End Process" button at the bottom right of the window.
5- Reboot computer to restart this Tone Control process.
What I noticed is that this process was at the top of the list when I had the issue and is now 6th in the list. I don't' know enough to speculate if this would impact a driver/hardware timing, but this seems to have made the issue go away.
Hope this helps.
03-07-2011 10:53 AM
That will not fix the wifi touch button problem. Sorry, many have already done the same thing.
Blowing humid air over the panel is not going to produce a scientific result. It has more to do with the extended operating environment and not the short term.
Many users have tried my fix and they are all having perfect results. It is static and not driver related. The tone control is also caused by static but unlike the wifi, you can suppress it by disabling the service. The only way to fix all of the problems is internally, sorry.