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First here's

The Solution ....................

On the back of the notebook there is a removable cover over the Subwoffer remove that ... the wireless module is located right next to the Base sub-woofer (and by extension the audio). My wireless module runs very HOT. I removed the Intel 5100 and tapped off the power wires.

 

I then installed a D-Link wireless low profile USB module (supports up to wifi n). The one thing you will notice is that upper keyboard near Volume runs much cooler. Also internal fans do not run as much. The D-Link module is slightly warm. It has been working fine for more than 2 weeks now.

................

 

 

 

If your interested in making HP a better corporate citizen for consumer product then read the rest and post your version of the

 

The Process.........

..............

 

Owners of this HP product (and by extension users of the HP support process are at the point of  "fish or cut bait"). Writing you Process will help you understand that.

 

 

 

 

The Process ........

I have a HP Pavilion dv8t-1000 CTO which I purchased in Nov  of 2009. Generally it's a nice computer except for periods of extraordinary frustrating wireless dropout swarms.

 

It has always had this problem to a some degree. I spent some time trying to fix after I received it, did the tech support thing but since it happen somewhat intermittently after I disabled most start-up programs (using msconfig) I decided to try to live with it. 

 

Then this fall it came back with a vengeance. It would drop the wireless turn the indicator from blue to orange and display the Bass (or Treble bar depending on which was selected). When I enabled wireless it would drop  within 10s of seconds. Wireless was unusable.

 

So I looked into it, updated wireless driver, turned off wireless power save, disabled all startup programs except security (Note: I dumped norton a long time ago). It may have improved but still was not in any way acceptable.

 

Next I did a disk restore  returning to the factory install. Still same problem. So starting from this SW install level I ...

 

Called the tech support again and went through a series of steps

-Driver updates

-Bios Update(installed remotely by HP, this seems to have disabled the Bios interface ... Thanks HP Support)

-installed all HP updates.

-etc.

 

At this point it seemed to drop out a few times an hour and was not doing the drop out swarm. At this point it's to to fix it or get something that is reliable.

 

They finally came to the step where they suggested installing a new wireless card but seemed reluctant to just send one.

-The support tech person spent ~1/2 hour writing the justification for sending a new one while I was on the phone. (when I asked several time how much longer the response was "just a moment". The moment took a long, long time.) I finally suggest that she fill out the information and just send it to me.

-Manager called later and wanted to plug/unplug the wireless card. I did this and told him I need to try it for a while. Later found out it would still would drop out.

 

But I found the solution here. When I touched the wireless module it was so hot I could not hold my finger on it for more than a few seconds. (Did you ever notice that the middle section just above the keyboard Volume/Treble/Bass controls gets very warm in normal usage?)

 

 

The Solution ....................

On the back of the notebook there is a removable cover over the Subwoffer remove that ... the wireless module is located right next to the base sub-woofer (and by extension the audio). My wireless module runs very HOT. I removed the Intel 5100 and tapped off the power wires.

 

I then installed a D-Link wireless low profile USB module (supports up to wifi n). The one thing you will notice is that upper keyboard near Volume runs much cooler. Also internal fans do not run as much. The D-Link module is slightly warm. It has been working fine for more than 2 weeks now.

................

 

The down sides

-I have to double click the wireless bars to cause wireless connect

-I have a ~1" module that I have to worry about smashing.

-Cost ~$40 for the low profile version at Fry's.

 

 

HP I'm Disappointed

- I asked the HP Support if there were know problems similar to mine. He would not answer the question. Note: Honesty goes a long ways.

(I see posts going back to 2007 on this type of issues, and this thread speaks for it's self.)

-Instead HP Support seem hell bend on preforming a number of time wasting tasks.

-If HP does not understand that the wireless modules gets very hot and causes problems then they are either technically not very good or are trying to reduce the cost to fix the problem hoping customer will live with the problem (as I might have done if not for the dropout swarm periods).

-In my opinion, either case disqualifies HP as my future source for computer / printers / etc.

I am really disappointed as I generally want to support local companies.

-in all I've probably spent ~ the equivalent 4-8hr days over the course of a couple of weeks.

........

 

 

Jim

 

 

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Message 32 of 72
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Well after 3 months of calling HP with this problem they decided my laptop needed to be sent in to be repaired. Well guess what, there is a problem with the laptop. They had to order a new ( Audio Button PCA-Printed Circuit Assembly). They replace this and did a Bios update. I've had the laptop back for 10 days now. Haven't had 1 problem with it yet. This could be the fix. I hope this will help aid in the problem of many HP Dv8t owners.  Also, I can actually use the laptop as a laptop, and move it.

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Message 33 of 72
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same issue - dv8 product id nq226av ...........wireless intermittent and seemingly endless on/off/on/etc connection issue....almost every time having treble/bass indicator issues onscreen.....frustrating that no one at HP appears to have an answer and just throws things at you to try so that it appears just blowing you off to get you off the call.........anyone got a real answer to this real problem?

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Message 34 of 72
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Hi I  Fixed the problem for the past 3 months I have been working on a solution to this problem. I read every post and did all of the things listed that said  It solved the problem, but it still came up. I have worked on hp's for 20yrs I love this product and I am a authorized tech for hp products. I bought this laptop refurbished and it came with a 90 day warranty. I finally broke down and asked support for help and they said It was out of warranty and for 99 dollars I could send it in for repair. I was less than pleased with HP. I first thought that this was a heat related problem so I got a cool pad and I still had the problem then I considered the static possibility, Maybe. I took the key board Bessel off and there is one ribbon cable in the center of the Bessel disconnect the ribbon cable and trim 1/2 of a millimeter from the end of the cable and put it back together I have also put a strip of anti static dryer sheet on the right side of the Bessel. the problem has not returned.

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Message 35 of 72
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I found a solution for the touch button problem. Read my post below, it actually works! Do not put dryer sheets in your laptop...

 

 I am an engineer and I design and research electronics test equipment. I am actually very surprised that HP has not invested a small amount of resources to solve this design flaw. I was able to do it in a few hours along with some research. Other users have done a fix that is almost like this but mine is a permanent and complete solution. After applying my fix, I found that my Wifi signal strength seems to have improved.

 

For once I can say that my DV8T works without any problems. I no longer have to avoid using the volume or mute button...

 

Keep in mind that this fix will only work for the design defect that it is meant to solve. If you have other contributing issues they may still remain. The cause that is addressed by this fix is the most common issue so chances are that if you follow the instructions, you will have good results.

 

Here is my post from another thread on HP about my fix:

 

I just finished putting it back together and it works perfectly! On my system it was very easy to test because when I pushed just above the F9 key the mute and Wifi would go crazy %100 percent of the time. Well, it does not malfunction, no matter where I press or how hard. I can press any of the capacitive touch buttons without any issues for the first time ever.

 

There are two parts to the problem. The first is the static grounding and shielding. The second is the exposed metal end caps of the LIF connector. This is the connector that the ribbon cable plugs into on the LED board. When I pressed on the LED before the revision, the exposed metal case of the connector would transfer the static charge to the housing just below it and cause a misfire of the cap touch circuit, triggering an actuation when it was not desired. This also occured randomly when the static charge potential reached high enough levels and jumped to ground also causing an unwanted actuation.

 

The solution was to shield the ribbon cable with high temp thin foil tape and increase the surface area of the existing foil tape ground pad that it rests on. I also secured the ribbon cable to the ground pad with additional strips of foil tape. Next I covered the LIF connector with Kapton tape to insulate it but left enough room to still plug the cable in. Once the metal connector housing was insulated I placed thin strips of foil tape over it still leaving the connector open for the ribbon cable. A good reference to use is the plastic slide lock that is pushed in to secure the end of the cable to the LIF. Cover only the plastic/metal housing of the LIF but not the slide lock or else you will not be able to secure the cable into the connector. Cover the kapton with foil tape to shield and ground it. You also do onto want to cause anything to short out on the foil tape that is being added.

 

The idea of taping the ribbon cable down to the existing small section of foil shielding is not a new idea but the exposed metal end caps of the LIF has not been mentioned. This is the main reason that most people have failed when performing the "tape down" method of the cable to the foil ground pad. My cable was actually secured well to the pad with adhesive. The only problem was that the shielding on the cable was not long enough and the ends of the LIF (low insertion force) connector where exposed.

 

I also placed some shielding on the under side of the entire cap touch board (LED board) and over the round mini sub woofer as well as wrapping the power and wifi harness to limit the EMI to the cap touch board (LED board). This can be done by placing foil tape over the channel that the wire harnesses reside in. I am not sure how much the shielding over the harness really had because usually that kind of problem causes a lack of response and not auto actuation. The foil tape shielding that I placed on the under side of the LED board did help to provide a nice path to ground for any residual static charge so I would be sure to include that step but you can likely omit the harness wrap.

 

After taking X-rays of the LED board I could see that the design and fab was actually very good so that left the static issue. performing the above will resolve the problem as long as you do not have some other underlying issue such as a defective LED board or power supply. After finding the cause I can almost for certain conclude that the Blu-Ray drive is not part of the problem.

 

On another note, I found a lot of loose screws and adding in the thin layers of foil tape made the entire keyboard and LED button panel feel much more robust and rigid. Almost as if it was designed correctly. Unfortunately the loose screws did not end up being the cause of the problem nor did the flexing of the LED board. This is ruled out due to the fact that I could trigger a false actuation without coming in direct contact with the panel. Just getting close enough to it with the tip of my finger would cause it to go nuts, all with no actual load being applied to the assembly.

 

That is all I can include for tonight but I will post some more info later. I did not take any pictures since I had planned on taking it apart again not expecting to fix it on the first try.

 

I am looking into trying to design & manufacture a kit that would come with die cut shielding gaskets or at least put out the info for anyone that wants to get the capacitive touch buttons working once and for all. It is not very hard to apply the foil tape but it is not fool proof since everyone may interpret and apply the fix differently. The goal is to put out a kit as well as the needed information that would allow a repeatable retrofit.

 

The panels are a little scary to take off since you feel like they are going to break but they do come off with a little patience.

 

Let me know what everyone thinks.

 

Thanks,

Brian

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Message 36 of 72
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I totally agree that this is a design and engineering issue. Unfortunately the average user won't have a clue the difference between a resister and a capacitor nor will they want to take it apart and they shouldn't have too.  I'm curious to hear from the other users that said there's was fixed if it still is. So far I've sent mine in once and from the poor description they sent back I believe replaced the board that control the buttons. Problem came back again and I called support and they had me uninstall several things, delete temp files and pull the battery and hold the power button to drain anything remaining. That worked surprisingly for two weeks and problem is back. My plan is to call and keep calling and sending back this POS until they replace it.

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HP seem to have just totally gone down the drain. Their customer service is just shocking it's unbelievable!

 

I bought a DV8 late last year and almost straight away had the problems with wi-fi and sound screen-sliders. I read on here how so many people had similar problems and that HP were impotent - Some folks must have spent loads in time and calls... I was so afraid I'd have the same problem that I decided to return mine under guarantee and get a refund. Thank goodness I did!

 

I now have a lovely Acer Aspire - similar specs to the HP with large HD screen and good sound. Course it's not quite a sexy-looking but hey, IT WORKS!!!

 

Anyway, so disappointed I was with the HP, that I went to the bother to write a letter to the new Chief Exec at HP in America. Now in ALL previous instances when I have felt compelled to write to a CE (not very often I admit), I have had a formal response - maybe not from the (wo)man (her/him)self, but from someone fairly high up, making me feel at least someone cared. NOT with HP! It's like "we really don't care about you now we have your money"!!!!!

 

I'm really quite sad though as previously I've quite liked HP. I have one of their printer, I love and I use them at work (though I'm now making efforts to persuade our IT that HP may not be the best option). So sadly, I will not be buying HP again and will advise others to do the same. It will only be when things start hurting HP financially that they will start to listen to the 'little (wo)man".

 

I expect I will now be ex-communicated for telling the truth about my experience..... oh well, "I ealley don't care HP, see, you HAVEN'T GOT MY MONEY"!

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Message 38 of 72
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Yes, the fix is a little more complicated than an average user can handle. No one should even have to do this to a new laptop. Its terrible that HP keeps putting bandages on the problem by replacing parts with the same defective design over and over again. They even made the same mistake on a newer model after seeing what happened on the DV8!!!

 

If you have this problem, likely you do, and you don't want to attempt the fix. I would print out the above solution and bring it to your local computer tech. They should be able to do it in less than 20 minutes and you will have working touch buttons and wifi.

 

My laptop was still in warrantee and HP even sent me a box to send it in for repair. After reading all of the people that sent laptops in for repair just to have the hard drive wiped and the issue return, I decided to figure it out and fix it on my own.

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Message 39 of 72
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Spike,

 

That does not work for this problem. It is NOT a software problem.

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