Finding iron oxide content of toner

[janey5]

Hi, I am trying to do a similar project on ceramic and have a P1006 and an old HP 4M. I'm wondering if there is a way to find out the iron oxide content of the toners for those printers. I heard too that HP toners do have a higher iron content. This is for an elementary school project so budget is an issue. The toners for printing checks should work but are very expensive for what I need to do. Any help is appreciated!

[TinaJ]

The project I did had mixed results. When I printed text it came out just fine, but when I printed photos some were good and some not. I finally realized that the better ones were the photos I took and therefore had a higher resolution (were larger image sizes). The ones that don't look very good are some that were emailed to me and were a lower resolution.

So, if you are printing text or from a higher resolution photo you probably will have good luck with the HP toner. If not, it might or might not work. Good luck!

Tina

[TROYGroup]

Hi, I just happened across this post while searching for information on a recent question we recieved on a similar problem. I work for a MICR toner company in Wheeling WV. [advertising text removed] . To answer your earlier question, MICR toners have the 60% (or more) iron oxide content you are looking for and are generally available for mid-level laser printers like the HP 2055, 3005, 3015 etc. There are a variety of sources and resellers and we even have an online store with some used / refurbed printers available. Unfortunately, HP inkjet printers and all-in-ones don't have MICR capability yet, and with the introduction of small laser printers like the 1505, I'm sure if they will ever be developed. Hope this helps.

[smurfy5]

I'm not sure if the lampworking info came from my tutorial or not since I have had one out for putting images on beads... but it seems that the newer laser printers do not use the same iron oxide toner (it says ferrite instead of iron oxide so I am not sure whst the difference is)  so sticking to an older printer or buying MICR toner will be the only way for it to work for transfers... in order to find the content you can go to http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/productdata/ljmsdsuseng.html?jumpid=reg_R1002... which should list the MSDS for the toner on all laser printers.

I hope this helps a bit,

Best wishes,

-Kirsten

[zoe74]

I was excited to read that you had good results with decal....I have just bought a 1020 and am awaiting toner to arrive (should be today :)) - am so excited bout fusing photos etc.  Have you got any tips on getting a good result? There doesn't seem to be a lot of fused photos around in this country - what has your experience been so far with fusing photos decals so far?x

[ProfWI]

I've been trying to make laser decals work. I've tried 3 printers so far with no success and I am about to invest in the MICR cartridge. Can you tell me what temperature or cone you fired your decals at?

Thanks

[TinaJ]

I am applying the decals to lampwork beads so they are heated to about 1000 to 1200 degrees in the kiln and then the clear enamel is applied and melted onto the bead surface over the decal, then any decorations added to the bead. They are annealed in a digitally controlled kiln at 968 and then ramped down over time to room temp.

I have had moderate success using the HP LaserJet P1006 printer. The trick for me has been to get the photos correctly sized with the density of the print a bit higher than most printing (I think I set the dpi to 300 or maybe more, it's been a while since I did any of these). I had very good results when printing words but photographs are much harder to do.

Good luck with your projects.

Tina

[ElaineBradley]

I am 99.9% certain your HP 1006 will do the trick.    

Go the the HP website

Find your HP model there

Identify the part number for the consumables ie the replacable toner cartridge

Look for the MSDS for the contents of the cartridge.  If it contains over 15% iron oxide in one of its forms then it will work with laser decals.  I have a HP Laserjet P10065 and use it for this purpose exclusively.

Some makers like Brother do not use iron in theirs

if it says trade secret then forget it

[robbiedaly]

I have the HP Laserjet P1006 and have tried to print on the photo fusing paper - let it dry for over a week and it bubbled and didn't work - I ruined some very expensive glass that was intended as a Christmas gift.  Where can I get a printer cartridge with iron oxide toner in it so it will fuse onto glass using the photo fusing paper?

[ElaineBradley]

Bad luck!  Once applied to your vitreous surface you must squeegee from the centre of the decal outwards to remove any air bubbles or water that are trapped beneath.  Holding it up to good light and observing the surface closely is very helpful to identify any little bubbles.  **bleep** them with a fine needle.  Blistering occurs resulting in holes in the image otherwise.   Allowing to dry 24 hours before firing is sufficient.  If you stuff up, you can refire if you apply an identical decal over the failed one.  

All glasses have a different melting point.  You need to know the melting point of the material you are using.  Your seller will tell you, or do some tests and observations at different temperatures.   I'd guess it'd be very tricky to get to work laser decals onto torched glass beads as there is so much melting and movement going on, more than a fine little decal could stand.