Omen 30L GT13 will boot up

[Tom124e6]

At power on, fans spin up and internal lighting turns on in fans and memory modules but no video output to display detected.  I cannot tell if my bios menu will come up with no display.  I have tested the swapable internal components and found no problems.  I replaced the internal power supply with no improvement.  While testing, I noticed the USB power may be weak or not present.  My corded mouse and keyboard both have internal LED lighting.  The mouse internal LEDs will light momentarily when the mouse is first connected then go out.  The keyboard internal lighting will not come on at all.  The LEDs in both devices should come on and stay on when connected to the PC USB ports and they work normally when connected to a functional PCs USB ports.  Normally, I use a wireless keyboard and mouse with this PC.  Prior to failure, my game would hang up momentarily and I heard a buzzing noise in the speakers.  It recovered from this hang with buzz issue several times before I shut the PC down to restart it hoping that would resolve the issue.  The PC has not worked since that shut down.  This sounds like it may be a motherboard issue, a failed capacitor.  I thought we were done with that kind of issue in modern electronics.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[Bill_To]

Hi @Tom124e6 

Welcome to the HP Forum.

Is your PC in warranty? Contact HP for warranty service.

The following question is a long shot. Did your PC recently get a BIOS update or a firmware update from HP Support Assistant or Windows Update?

i think it's pretty safe to conclude you have a faulty component based upon the symptoms you are experiencing. Unless your PC has recently received a faulty BIOS update.

Okay, you replaced the power supply with no change. You can probably eliminate this component.

You state you tested swappable internal components and found no problems. What swappable components did you test? Did you try these components in a different, known good, MB using a different, known good, CPU and power supply?

Since you don't have video output it is uncertain if your PC is doing a successful POST.

You could try disconnecting all unnecessary peripherals if you are using any.

Now, run the PC using only: the CPU and associated cooler, one stick of memory, and the factory installed graphics card. This means disconnecting all internal drives, M.2 WIFI adapter if installed, and front USB.

Try each stick of HP Factory memory, one at a time, in each memory socket. Start the PC as you go to test each memory stick and memory socket/channel. You may have to try a different, known good, memory stick in each memory socket.

You may have a MB or CPU problem if you cannot get a successful POST when running the PC in a minimum configuration using a, known good, power supply and a, known good, stick of RAM.

Your PC's MB does not support onboard graphics. This means you should also try a different discrete graphics card.

Or have a local PC Tech take a look if your PC is not in warranty and you can't provide replacement components.

Finding a bad component can be expensive and time consuming. 

Regards

[Tom124e6]

Thank you for your suggestions.  There was no recent bios update, I'm pretty sure.  I've tried two known good video cards in this PC with no change in symptoms.  I did install a memory upgrade within weeks of the failure.  The PC operated fine with the new memory for weeks before failure with no errors or faults.  I've tried reinstalling the original memory sticks with no change.  The only internal components I did not swap or test independently was the motherboard, processor, and liquid cooler.  I isolated the small LED control board, front panel, extra internal drive, and small WiFi/Bluetooth card on the motherboard also with no change.  Based on what I'm seeing, I believe the processor is functioning or at least that is my working theory now.  Odds are the Hana motherboard failed after two years of use.  I had not heard of this motherboard manufacturer before now.  I tried to get more information on it and them.  I found a close match but not exact manual from their site (earlier rev).  It's been a few years since I built a PC but I am well into rebuilding this one now using a reputable Gigabyte motherboard.  Here we go.

[Bill_To]

Hi @Tom124e6 

My pleasure.

Let the Forum know how the MB replacement goes.

I'm guessing the new Gigabyte MB is compatible with the existing: CPU and memory.

Try the new MB with only the CPU (CPU cooler), power supply, memory, and monitor to verify all components are working. Use onboard graphics if your CPU and new MB support this.

I short the two MB front panel power pins with a small Phillips screwdriver to energize the system when I test a new system outside of the case. Check the Gigabyte user manual for the location of the correct pins to short.

You can also connect a mouse and keyboard if you want to navigate the Gigabyte EFI after getting a successful POST.

Disconnect AC power when you are done .

Regards

[Tom124e6]

Thanks again.  I will provide an update on this project here hopefully soon.  Fortunately, my processor is still in production/demand so there were several motherboards to choose from that would support it.  The memory I bought was compatible with the processor so it too will work.

Your build method is much smarter than what I did, the new motherboard is installed in the case waiting for other parts.  I even have an ESD mat to lay the motherboard on out of the case but didn't think of it.  The board went from the box to the case.  I am using the ESD wrist strap and grounding cord, not my first rodeo.

The new motherboard has introduced some challenges that I didn't foresee, like connector locations and very short cables in the case.  I've ordered some extension cables and should have those today sometime.  Another issue is the liquid cooler module screw locations are different on the new motherboard.  Most new coolers come with various brackets to attach the cooler module to the processor/motherboard, but this one only has the brackets that fit the Hana board.  Until I find a good way to adapt this cooler, I'm going to install a good air cooler that also should come today.  From what I read, the new motherboard does not require a liquid cooler for my 105W processor.  Some did.  I looked for liquid cooler install kits that I may be able to use but could not find one.  If anyone knows a good source/site to look for a universal liquid cooler install kit, please let me know.  I could probably make my own but cutting and grinding metal is not my forte.  

[Bill_To]

Hi @Tom124e6 

My pleasure.

Either PC build method is good. I did it your way until a couple of years ago.

Building in an anti static environment is the way to go.

I forgot to mention I now do preliminary: MB builds and "smoke tests" on the MB box before installing the MB in the case.

HP MBs and cases are designed to fit together like a glove.

HP also uses a square, Intel, CPU socket mounting point layout on the AMD MBs instead of the standard rectangular AMD CPU socket layout. So the HP CPU cooler bracket and HP backplate would not work with the AMD Gigabyte MB.

HP's AMD CPU liquid coolers are made by Asetek per HP's Intel design specifications. I don't know if you could get the correct AMD CPU adapter kit from Asetek.

I am pretty sure the 30L case limits CPU liquid cooling radiators/ fans to one 120 mm component. Can you do a 240 mm radiator in this case?

I just built a Ryzen 7900X system (but not in a 30L case). So I gave the Noctua NH-U12A 120 mm dual fan air cooler a try. The Noctua AMD mounting system would work with the Gigabyte MB. I don't know if this cooler would work with your case. You would have to check dimensions if you are interested in considering the Noctua.

This air cooler is expensive. Pricing is similar to some 240 mm AIO CPU Liquid Coolers. The cooler is keeping a 7900X under heavy loads cool, the this cooler runs fairly quiet. I am amazed. This air cooler runs super quiet under normal CPU loads.

I don't know If I will consider a liquid cooler again unless the Noctua can't do the job on a newer, more powerful, CPU.

The 7900X can do 230 watts and sustain 95 degrees C under a continuous heavy load. I did under volt the CPU and applied a 85 degree C thermal limit in the BIOS with minimal CPU performance loss.

Regards

[Tom124e6]

You have been very helpful and I appreciate you.  The new motherboard fixed the problem and the PC is up and running again.  I have been using then later building PCs since the Commodore 64 was released and this is my first motherboard failure in all that time.  Windows loaded and activated without an additional charge.  I'm guessing the activation is tied to the processor, it was fine.  I'm working through some issues with BitLocker to get access to my original SSD and data.  That's a Microsoft story and is too long to try to explain.  I'll work through that in time.  For now, I have a fresh Windows install on a new drive.  There aren't many original parts inside this case but I didn't have to replace the graphics card or processor.  The original power supply was likely good but I'll leave the new one installed.

I haven't load tested the new CPU air cooler but I'm confident it will do fine.  Looking at the case, I don't believe there is enough room to mount a 240mm cooler radiator.  There is limited room in this case design.  As long as I don't have any problems, I'm going to leave this air cooler installed.  I used a similar air cooler design on an earlier build, Phenom II high wattage processor, and it has done fine all these years.  I am still using that computer on my electronics bench in my workshop.  I'm running Windows 10 on it and it's close to 14 years old and working great for how I'm using it.  I have excellent air flow through that older case so I installed a 120mm fan in place of the removed liquid cooler radiator in this newer case to make sure I have good air flow in this one.  Cool air being drawn in from the lower front and exhaust air blowing out on the top.

Many thanks

[Bill_To]

Hi @Tom124e6 

My pleasure.

Good to see all is well again.

I'm surprised Windows activated. Microsoft usually ties OS activation on OEM PCs to the OEM MB.

Regards