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- Could someone help me please..HP Pavilion HPE h8-1090t CTO D...

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04-08-2016 04:48 PM
I just bought a new PSU (Corsair CS650M) because someone recommended that it would be a good replacement PSU for my model HP which is HP Pavilion HPE 1090t. I need to know if this Corsair will work and is compatible with my system because something is not working right with it or I did something wrong. This is my very first install and when it comes to knowing the ins and outs of the power Input & Output & Amperages ratings I get so confused on that stuff. But I do believe I got all the connection pluged in correctly, at least when I re-plugin my old PSU after the fail install I got the PC working again so that give me confidence that I did the Corsair install correctly. But what happen is after installing the Corsair unit and powering on the system it clicked off after about 10 secs or so and then restarted again after a few secs and then would shut down again and stay off after another 10 to 15 secs, and nothing would come up on the monitor either. The first time I researched what PSU would be compatible I was getting conflicting results with some places on the net saying that the majority of the HP's out there (not including certain models like the slimline) could be replaced with different manufacturers and higher wattage PSU's while other places I looked said different. Even the person that recommended this PSU to me said in his post that he installed a Corsair HX650 model in his HP PC and it worked out just fine for him. Now after the installation failed for the next few days I did a whole lot more research and when I went into the HP site and looked up my PC model specifications I noticed under the Power supply section it had a titled that said "Must select one of the following options" (actually most of the different sections shows that title too) and then it only showed two options 460W and 600W. So it got me wondering if that is the only options I get with my model. And then I looked up my HP model number on the HP PartSurfer and under the PSU section it also only listed 460W and 600W. So which is it? Do I have to stay with only those two HP options or can I get a PSU with a little higher wattage then 600W from a different Mfr which is what I want. If I can get something that is compatible other than HP's listed options please let me know or if this Corsair one should work please someone let me know. I need to return it otherwise. My specs are below.
Thanks Aaron
HP Pavilion HPE Series
Model #: h8-1090t CTO Desktop PC
Manufacturer's motherboard name: Pegatron IPMTB-TK HP/Compaq name: Truckee
Pic of Motherboard link: http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Pavilion-HPE-h8-1000-Desktop-PC-series/5080764/model/5117795...
Original HP installed: AMD Radeon HD 6570 Video card (Bronco) 1GB Model: 648533-001, SP# 659355-001
Pic of Video card link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111761368505
Nothing has been added/changed real recently to the system. Last change was on first of the 2015 year, which was a new 2TB hard drive and added memory however problem only started about 3 weeks ago. Inside has been cleaned (can aired)
600W uATX Estar v5 HF PSU (Petrus)
Current Hardware info off of the Power Supply Unit
Switching Power Supply
Model: DPS-600WB A
Part Number: 633186-001
600W MAX Power Supply
Output: DC Output Rating (New Corsair PSU)
+12Va === 16A DC Output = +3.5v / +5v / +12v / -12v / +5vsb
+12Vb === 18A Max Load = 25A / 25A / 51A / 0.8A / 3A
+12Vc === 12A Max Comb = 130W / 612W / 9.6W / 15W
+12Vd === 10A Wattage Total Power 650W
+5.08V === 16A AC Input Ratings
+3.3V === 15A AC input: 100V - 240V
+5.08Vsb === 2A Current: 10A - 5A
-12V === 0.3A Frequency: 47Hz = 63Hz
Input:
100 - 127V ~ , 50-60Hz, 10A
200 - 240V ~ , 50-60Hz, 4A
Solved! Go to Solution.
Accepted Solutions
04-09-2016 03:05 PM
You are very welcome.
While there is a limit to the amount of wattage that is necessary to run the computer, it will only use the amount of wattage that it takes to run the computer properly. The additional wattage is held in reserve for peak needs. So, you really can't hurt the computer with additional wattage or amperage. You can rest easy on that point.
@Indianaak wrote:Thank you so much for your quick reply, I wasn't getting anyone to reply to earlier post.
So your saying these HP replacement parts are not proprietary to the company? Some of the connectors can be proprietary, but most are not.
It should work then? Yes. I have recommended hundreds of PSU's over the years that I have been helping on the Forums; actually since about 2002.
How about the input/Output & amperages rating that I have listed? Since I don't understand any of that lingo, I want to make sure that I have/using the correct rating for my system. I don't want to fry any of my compondents with to much amperage. Well either I did something wrong in installing it or this PSU is a dud then. Read my explanation at the top of the page.
Like I said before I pretty sure I got all the connections right, You tell me if it sounds right to you. I pluged in the two hardwired connectors into the motherboard which were the main 24 pin ATX power connector and the EPS/ATX12V 8-pin which I split and pluged one end of the cable labled "CPU" into the 4 pins slot on the montherboard labeled ATX CPU. As for the other split 4 pin connector I didn't see anywhere this could be pluged into the motherboard. If both of the 4-pin connectors were marked the same, this should be fine. However, you might try plugging in the other 4-pin instead, just to make certain the correct one is plugged in for the processor power.
My video card AMD Radeon HD 6570 1GB is the type that gets its power thru the MB so I didn't use any of the 6-8 pin PCI-E cables. This is fine.
And so the only thing that I had left that I pluged in was the Sata cables compondents which was my Bluray Burner, my 2 TB Harddrive, and my USB 3.0 card. These are very straight forward.
Again being new to installing hardware in my system let me ask hopefully not a stupid question, but when you are connecting Sata cable compondents, you don't have to have the compondent cabling plug-in in a particular order or way do you? I didn't check the specs for your PSU, but I believe most to them have a single 12V rail. If this is the case, you don't have to connect them in any order. If there are two rails, it is normally better to divide the power to each rail.
Also on my old PSU it has a SATA extention cable that was used to connent the USB 3.0 card which is sandwiched pretty tightly between video card and the sound card, so I'm assuming I could use this extention cable with the new PSU Sata cabling without any compatiblity issues, right? This should be no problem that I can think of at this point.
Thank you again for your help, I'll probably will try and hook it up one more time and see if I can get it to work. If it doesn't work this time, I highly suggest that you contact Corsair's Tech Support for help. They are the experts on their products and would catch any possible mistakes that we are making. It is very difficult to diagnose a problem from afar. When you get done with this project, you will no longer have the excuss that you are a novice.
You will have a lot of knowledge that you didn't have when you started.
Please click the Thumbs up + button if I have helped you and click Accept as Solution if your problem is solved.
I am not an HP Employee!!
Intelligence is God given. Wisdom is the sum of our mistakes!!
04-08-2016 09:33 PM
There should be no reason why the PSU won't work in your computer. The 460W and 600W PSU's are simply the choices that HP offers. Your choice of a modular PSU is very good in a mid-size case.
Here is a diagram of the motherboard:
I marked in blue the possible connections on it. The PSU cables should be marked. I am sorry for the crude arrows, but it was the best that I could do free-hand.
I am not an HP Employee!!
Intelligence is God given. Wisdom is the sum of our mistakes!!
04-09-2016 12:12 AM
Thank you so much for your quick reply, I wasn't getting anyone to reply to earlier post. So your saying these HP replacement parts are not proprietary to the company? It should work then? How about the input/Output & amperages rating that I have listed? Since I don't understand any of that lingo, I want to make sure that I have/using the correct rating for my system. I don't want to fry any of my compondents with to much amperage. Well either I did something wrong in installing it or this PSU is a dud then. Like I said before I pretty sure I got all the connections right, You tell me if it sounds right to you. I pluged in the two hardwired connectors into the motherboard which were the main 24 pin ATX power connector and the EPS/ATX12V 8-pin which I split and pluged one end of the cable labled "CPU" into the 4 pins slot on the montherboard labeled ATX CPU. As for the other split 4 pin connector I didn't see anywhere this could be pluged into the motherboard. My video card AMD Radeon HD 6570 1GB is the type that gets its power thru the MB so I didn't use any of the 6-8 pin PCI-E cables. And so the only thing that I had left that I pluged in was the Sata cables compondents which was my Bluray Burner, my 2 TB Harddrive, and my USB 3.0 card. Again being new to installing hardware in my system let me ask hopefully not a stupid question, but when you are connecting Sata cable compondents, you don't have to have the compondent cabling plug-in in a particular order or way do you? Also on my old PSU it has a SATA extention cable that was used to connent the USB 3.0 card which is sandwiched pretty tightly between video card and the sound card, so I'm assuming I could use this extention cable with the new PSU Sata cabling without any compatiblity issues, right? Thank you again for your help, I'll probably will try and hook it up one more time and see if I can get it to work.
04-09-2016 03:05 PM
You are very welcome.
While there is a limit to the amount of wattage that is necessary to run the computer, it will only use the amount of wattage that it takes to run the computer properly. The additional wattage is held in reserve for peak needs. So, you really can't hurt the computer with additional wattage or amperage. You can rest easy on that point.
@Indianaak wrote:Thank you so much for your quick reply, I wasn't getting anyone to reply to earlier post.
So your saying these HP replacement parts are not proprietary to the company? Some of the connectors can be proprietary, but most are not.
It should work then? Yes. I have recommended hundreds of PSU's over the years that I have been helping on the Forums; actually since about 2002.
How about the input/Output & amperages rating that I have listed? Since I don't understand any of that lingo, I want to make sure that I have/using the correct rating for my system. I don't want to fry any of my compondents with to much amperage. Well either I did something wrong in installing it or this PSU is a dud then. Read my explanation at the top of the page.
Like I said before I pretty sure I got all the connections right, You tell me if it sounds right to you. I pluged in the two hardwired connectors into the motherboard which were the main 24 pin ATX power connector and the EPS/ATX12V 8-pin which I split and pluged one end of the cable labled "CPU" into the 4 pins slot on the montherboard labeled ATX CPU. As for the other split 4 pin connector I didn't see anywhere this could be pluged into the motherboard. If both of the 4-pin connectors were marked the same, this should be fine. However, you might try plugging in the other 4-pin instead, just to make certain the correct one is plugged in for the processor power.
My video card AMD Radeon HD 6570 1GB is the type that gets its power thru the MB so I didn't use any of the 6-8 pin PCI-E cables. This is fine.
And so the only thing that I had left that I pluged in was the Sata cables compondents which was my Bluray Burner, my 2 TB Harddrive, and my USB 3.0 card. These are very straight forward.
Again being new to installing hardware in my system let me ask hopefully not a stupid question, but when you are connecting Sata cable compondents, you don't have to have the compondent cabling plug-in in a particular order or way do you? I didn't check the specs for your PSU, but I believe most to them have a single 12V rail. If this is the case, you don't have to connect them in any order. If there are two rails, it is normally better to divide the power to each rail.
Also on my old PSU it has a SATA extention cable that was used to connent the USB 3.0 card which is sandwiched pretty tightly between video card and the sound card, so I'm assuming I could use this extention cable with the new PSU Sata cabling without any compatiblity issues, right? This should be no problem that I can think of at this point.
Thank you again for your help, I'll probably will try and hook it up one more time and see if I can get it to work. If it doesn't work this time, I highly suggest that you contact Corsair's Tech Support for help. They are the experts on their products and would catch any possible mistakes that we are making. It is very difficult to diagnose a problem from afar. When you get done with this project, you will no longer have the excuss that you are a novice.
You will have a lot of knowledge that you didn't have when you started.
Please click the Thumbs up + button if I have helped you and click Accept as Solution if your problem is solved.
I am not an HP Employee!!
Intelligence is God given. Wisdom is the sum of our mistakes!!
04-10-2016 01:50 AM
Again thank you so much for you insight. And Yes you are definitely correct about me not being a novice anymore. That first time I swapped out the PSU's it took me litterally at least 2 hours from start to finish. (but I also was doing it with a disability too, I'm legally blind) But now since I've swapped these units out a few more times. I can do it in about 10-15 mins. Of course it helps when you know where the connections are located on the motherboard and on the components and now that I know that its faster. After hooking it up again I still had no luck. The system did the same thing. After Powered on it would shut down after about 15 secs or so and then power right back up again and sometimes it would do this cycle different amount of times before it would just stay on finally. Nothing would display on the monitor screen thru the whole time. Yes I tried connecting that other 4 pin CPU connecter (even tho the second 4 pin had no label saying CPU on it) but it made no difference, it still had the same issue. When you get talking about single 12v rails thats were I get lost easily. But I research the answer of what this model has and it looks to be a single 12v rail. So with your help I think I can eleminate the fact that I didn't mess up the install, so this unit might be a bad one. I'll do what you suggested and call Corsair and tell them the issue and see what they say before I send this back to Amazon. But again thanks for all your help and info. Aaron