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[mdklassen · Accepted solution]

> Is the situation is your opinion, that my computer is just getting too old, and it is time to either upgrade,

Microsoft will support Windows 7 until January 2020 -- less than 3 years away.

Question: How old will your disk-drive be, on that date?

Answer: Too old to be reliable, on that date, and probably too old to be reliable, even today.

Question: Do I think that the disk-drive is the cause of your problems?

Answer: Yes.

Question: What's the easiest way to confirm my thought?

Answer #1: Buy a brand-new, faster, larger capacity disk-drive from Seagate, and download the FREE "disk-cloning" software from Seagate's web-site.  Use the software to "clone" -- make an exact image -- from the "current" disk-drive to the new-drive.

Answer #2: Buy a brand-new, faster, larger capacity disk-drive from Western Digitale, and download the FREE "disk-cloning" software from Western Digital's web-site.  Use the software to "clone" -- make an exact image -- from the "current" disk-drive to the new-drive.

Question: Why "clone"?

Answer: Because "cloning" will copy all of Windows, all of your applications, and all of your personal files.

When you boot from the "new" disk-drive, the hope is that your problem will not happen.

Question: What if the problem still exists, after booting from the "new" disk-drive?

Answer: Use that new disk-drive, and your 4 DVDs, to install a "fresh" copy of Windows.

Run Windows Update.

Install an Anti-Virus program.

Attach your "old" disk-drive as a "slave" disk-drive, and copy all your personal files & bookmarks onto the new disk-drive.

> or as I have been told, to do a back up and then reinstall Windows 7 from the copying procedure I spoke about, using the 4 DVD's to download data from my computer. I just don't remember specifically what that procedure was called .

I am hoping that the program was "Create a System Recovery Set".

With the new disk-drive installed, boot your computer from the first of the disks, and install Windows.

> But I did see a video about it, and evidently, it is a fairly common procedure? 

Yes.  Since the manufacturer did not supply the 4 DVD disks, the responsibility for creating that "set" has been pushed to you, as the purchaser of the computer.

>  I'm trying my best not to get into too deep and screw things up more than they are now.

Disk-cloning, as long as you select the correct "source" drive and the correct "target" drive, is quite simple.

> [Do] you think it best I go to a "pro" to resolve my computer issues, which may be either software or hardware,

Yes, that's one solution.  How much would that professional charge?  Get a "quote", in writing, before you start.

However, you said that your hardware "passed" all the tests. So, don't pay anybody to repeat those hardware tests.

I still think that the disk-drive is the cause of your problems.

Note that installing from the 4 DVDs onto the "new" disk-drive should solve any "software" issues, by creating a "fresh" copy of Windows for you to use.

So, what's it going to be -- "cloning" or "fresh installing" ?

[sciencemagic]

Hi mdklassen, once again thank you for your detailed reply. After your detailed suggestions , I'd say the cloning option may be best for me. Being my computer could use a upgrade to it's functionality anyway.

   I believe you may be right about what the 4 disks procedure is called: "Create a System Recovery Set". Being you probably know what I currently have, what recommendations do you recommend in so far as a getting a brand-new, faster, larger capacity disk-drive? Any spec's would be appreciated, being those kind of things are foreign to me any way.

   Thank you, mdklassen for your help.

[mdklassen]

> What recommendations do you recommend in so far as a getting a brand-new, faster, larger capacity disk-drive?

Since your computer is a "desktop" computer, not a "notebook" computer, you have two choices:

* a 7200 RPM disk-drive,

* a SSD ("Solid State Device")

that will fit inside your computer.

Your current disk-drive could be 5400 RPM.  So, 7200 RPM spins 33% faster, decreasing the "lag" time for the disk-drive to spin to the current position for a block of data to be accessed.

A SSD disk has no moving parts.  Therefore, there is no "lag", making it much faster to access a block of data.

What is the capacity of your current disk-drive?  Do you use all that space?

I ask, because byte-for-byte, a SSD is about 4 times as expensive as a "spinning" disk-drive.

You might be happy with a 256GB SSD -- lots of room for Windows and for applications and for "some" personal files, at about the same price as a 1024 GB or 2048 GB "spinning" disk-drive.

[sciencemagic]

Hi mdklassen, thanks again for your reply. After doing some searching I found the specs for my hard drive, I believe.  Actually, I'm a little confused about hard drive and processor, and what the difference may be? But, the model # for my disk drive is (device manager) is ST 350041 3AS SATA. The Processor is AMD E 300APU. According to the info I saw, it has 7200 RPM and 3.6 installed memory. I also see I have 376 free GB of 449 GB on the C drive, and 2.07 free of 16.5 GB on the HP recovery disk. So, after possibly looking at these specs, what do you think of them, and what do you think I should purchase? I suspect a normal drive, non SSD will suffice. Thank you, mdklassen.

[mdklassen]

>  I'm a little confused about hard drive and processor, and what the difference may be?

The disk-drive stores files, and the CPU ("Central Processor Unit") does the calculations, and moves data to/from the disk-drive.

> But, the model # for my disk drive is (device manager) is ST3500413AS SATA.

Seagate BarraCuda 7200.12 ST3500413AS

500GB

7200 RPM

16MB Cache

SATA

6.0Gb/s

3.5"

Internal

As far as "consumer-level" disk-drives go, it's as fast as anything else, both in RPM and the maximum data-transfer rate (6 Gbit/second).  The 16MB of "cache" allows it to save "write" requests, and optimize the order of the requests, rather than just using the simple FIFO ("first-in first-out") method.

>  it has 3.6 installed memory.

Probably 4GB of RAM, with 0.4 GB reserved for use for "video" purposes.

> I also see I have 376 free GB of 449 GB on the C drive, and 2.07 free of 16.5 GB on the HP recovery disk.

So, only 73 GB used on 'C:' plus most of the 16.5 GB used for the "HP Recovery" partition.

> what should purchase? I suspect a normal drive, non SSD will suffice.

From: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/seagate-barracuda-1tb-internal-sata-hard-drive-for-desktops-silver/57071...

Ha, ha, ha.  How technology "evolves".

A  ONE Terabyte disk-drive, for $50 US, is the "smallest" disk-drive that they list.

Compare to: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sandisk-ultra-ii-240gb-internal-sata-solid-state-drive-for-laptops-black...

at $85 US for a 240GB SSD.

You have much less than 120GB being used.  So, buying a 240GB disk gives lots of "free" space.

Personally, I would go with the SSD, because it will be so much faster -- money well spent.

Also, a SSD produces less heat than any "spinning" disk-drive, and consumes less energy (and battery power).

[sciencemagic]

Hi mdklassen, thank you again for your reply. I will check out the links you submitted. So, if I understand it, while I may have lots of free space on my C drive, that doesn't really translate into computer efficiency and speed? I guess if my processor (AMD E300 APU) is sort of outdated, no matter how much free space I might have it won't really matter? Just trying to understand things. Thank you, mdklassen.

[mdklassen]

> while I may have lots of free space on my C drive, that doesn't really translate into computer efficiency and speed?

The data on a "spinning" disk-drive is stored in concentric "rings".

Windows tends to use the rings closest to the centre before using the rings further away from the centre.

So, thereotically, having 64GB of data spread over a 128GB disk-drive can be slower than having 64GB of data near the centre of a 256GB disk-drive.

But, in "normal" operation, you'll never notice this difference in "efficiency".

However, a SSD is quite different -- data can be stored "anywhere" on it with NO loss of "efficiency".

> I guess if my processor (AMD E300 APU) is sort of outdated,

Such is the world of computers -- the day after you purchased it, it becomes "outdated".

> no matter how much free space I might have it won't really matter?

Given that the "smallest" currently-available "spinning" disk-drive (either 500GB or 1000GB) greatly exceeds the quantity of data that you have, it does not matter.

However, SSD devices are still quite expensive.

So, picking a 256GB SSD, for your 64GB of files, costs *MUCH* less than picking a 1024GB SSD for the same 64GB of files.

[sciencemagic]

Hi mdklassen, thank you for the reply. I do appreciate your input to my problem, thank you. I guess I now have to figure out if these various disk drive's WILL fit in my computer? Do these various hard drives have a common fitment to them so they can "exchange" for my current hard drive? Or, do I have to remove my current drive and see how it is configured so I can try and visualize if it will fit? Thank you.

[savvy2]

FIRST OFF IT CAN BE, JUST VIRUS INFECTED, OR BAD HDD OR UPDATES DIED.

if you boot to any of the many windows PE or linux live boot CD or better boot Usb sticks, youd see

that the PC is ok or not.  if its OK then HDD and its installed OS is corrupted. Run SFC ?yet.?

Windows 7 is problematic

ever do a fresh install in 2017 anywhere  and see the 300 updates missing> and 3 days to get em'.

and if then newest version of IE is not installed , the UPDATES will will never ever happen!!

I have battled this on many systems even made a slip streamed install disk for w7-64 with all updates on board.

That does work and i have it on Udisk USB stick. (not teaching this ever)

but lets work your problem, above is the heads up horrors w7,that do apply here.

what if your PC is 2009 PC DT or laptop

and on that day you got (bought) the Install disks. from HP,  the media install kit.

well its 300 updates behind and missing correcte IE, 11. 

are you there>? we dont know as 2009 was a long time ago and w7 is a bit if a mess. (grew there)

ok  what to do,

1: backup your data.  Not sure if you can do that from your current OS, is it totally dead, you never said.

just stopped working,  that can be many things...  from dead internet or all screens dead. 

death has many levels in any OS>  endlesss in fact.

ill say total death.  toss of coin

so what I do is take my current HDD, off my dead laptops (guess) and move it to my DT on my external esata case.

then backup all data now, using any of  a vast numbers of ways (google how to back up data)

ok its done

now i do a simple install , hdd back to dead LT

and we insert the HP install media and do a full clean install

if the setup.exe tells you the HDD is dead or defective it sure is, time for a new HDD or 10x better a new ssd

EASY NO?

tell more about what the the pc does good and bad, the full story and answers get 10x better.

my motto.... on all complex technology.

id have  Live boot CD in there, to see , just how bad it is,  i bet  its just yet another Virus attack, as most are.

[mdklassen]

>  I guess I now have to figure out if these various disk drive's WILL fit in my computer?

> Do these various hard drives have a common fitment to them so they can "exchange" for my current hard drive?

> Or, do I have to remove my current drive and see how it is configured so I can try and visualize if it will fit?

Previously, you wrote:

>  But, the model # for my disk drive is (device manager) is ST3500413AS SATA.

and I replied:

Seagate BarraCuda 7200.12 ST3500413AS

500GB

7200 RPM

16MB Cache

SATA

6.0Gb/s

3.5"

Internal

So, you have the "standard" internal disk-drive, exactly 3.5 inches wide with SATA connectors for power & data.

All new "consumer-level" disk-drives have SATA connectors.

However, most SSD devices are the same width as a "laptop" disk-drive, namely 2.5 inches.

You can fit such a device into a "tray" that holds the 2.5-inch wide device, and slides into a 3.5-inch slot.