06-17-2019 06:45 PM
I know this was discussed in a thread that has been archived. The cause of the problem in this case was not solved by any of the suggested solutions. Firmware is the latest version (7.250.xx), SR9 works fine, ITB is good, etc.
I have traced it down to this: the white flag on the ITB is not moving during the boot process. If the flag is up on the ITB at the time it's installed, then the flag on SR9 will be in the UP position and it never goes down. Sensor SR9 works perfectly, no sluggishness at all and The sensor test shows that it is responding as it should (when manually moved up and down. The problem is not with the ITB itself since installing a known working ITB from another printer did not solve the problem.
When running the built in Diagnostics I get unusual noises during the last 2 cycles of the Alienation Motor test (the first half of the test sounds normal). I have a video clip of this test, if desired.
06-17-2019 11:21 PM
Valismot is corect, a sticky solenoid is the most likley cause. The good news is that you can remove the solenoid without having to remove the entire drive train. There are videos on Youtube that show how this is done on on the CP3525, the operation is virtually identical for the 4525. I just did this procedure on a 3000 series and it works. Basically you need to remove the formatter and cage, the dc controller and the upper HVPS and then you can remove the solenoid and remove the old pad which has degraded and is now sticky and replace it with another piece of foam or other buffer. You need to use some type of buffer or the solenoid will slowly magnetize itself and then start sticking again.
06-18-2019 07:05 AM
Thank you for the quick reply. Unfortunately the solenoid fix has already been done, yet the problem remains. I am wondering if the gear that this solenoid controls could have gotten slightly out of position while the solenoid was removed. Is there a document showing the correct alignment of the gears? I used one on a 3505 a few years ago.
06-18-2019 01:25 PM
I just did this repair on a 3525 as well, I had to replace the entire fuser drive assembly. Took about 4 hours. There are 2 gears with a square section in the teeth that have to mesh into a main drive gear- once they go out of sync it starts chewing them up and you get the unusual noises and pops- sometimes you can just remove and reinstall the ITB several times as a band aid to get a few prints out, but eventually you have to replace the entire drive if the solenoid trick doesn't work. Here's what you're looking at repair wise if not done before- this pic shows the entire rebuild- with parts removed and a nifty arrow to the offending gears. You DO NOT- emphasis on DO NOT! need to do the last step in the manual and remove the main drive assembly, you can wiggle the old fuser drive assembly out and the new one into place by just taking a few extra pieces off. Not for the faint of heart. 🙂