black screen

[bootblack]

Installed EVGA GTX1050TI SC - Booted up to a black screen

Shut down and reconnected DVI to onboard DVI graphics port - Booted up to a black screen

Removed and replaced 8GB DIMM to same original slot - Booted up to a black screen

Tried the 8GB DIMM in other three memory slots - Booted up to a black screen every time.

Removed EVGA video card - again, booted up to a black screen.

Changed monitor and DVI cable - same result as above - black screen on boot up!

[MKazi]

@bootblack

Thanks for reaching out to us on HP Support Forums. 🙂 I came across your post and would like to help.

I understand that you have an HP Pavilion 500-164 Desktop PC. I read that you installed an EVGA GTX1050TI SC graphics card and the PC booted a black screen. I have read your post comprehensively and appreciate the steps you have performed and have certainly done a good job.

I see that the issue persists even after removing the EVGA GTX1050TI SC graphics card. There is no display/boot. 

I would like to know the following information to assist you better:

• Have you tried to connect the monitor to the VGA port on the PC and check if there is a display using the VGA?

If the issue persists then please perform the following steps:

• Press and hold the power button of the PC until it powers off completely.
• Keep the EVGA GTX1050TI SC graphics card out of the PC and do not connect it.
• Disconnect all cables and devices from the PC (including the power cable).
• Now, press and hold the PC's power button for 10 seconds and then release it. 
• Reconnect the keyboard, mouse monitor and the power cable and power on the PC.

Perform a monitor self test:

• Power off the PC and disconnect the monitor from the PC.
• Power off the monitor and if you get a message saying "check input signal", "out of range", etc. then it indicates that the monitor has passed the self test and the monitor is good. 

You may also check if the PC boots to the BIOS. Connect the monitor to the VGA and power on the PC and hit the F10 key repeatedly (7-8 times). This will make the PC boot to the BIOS.

If the PC continues to not boot up then I suggest you to perform a BIOS rollback. You may refer to the steps mentioned under "Recovering the BIOS using keypress combination".

I genuinely hope the issue gets resolved without hassles and the unit works great. Please feel free to keep me posted. All the best! 🙂

[bootblack]

Thank you Mr. MKazi for your excellent suggestions.

STUPID ME however, I tried one last ditch effort after this post and after finding out the correct memory slot population configuration for this motherboard.

After searching online forever, I found a user who also had this MB and also  was questioning the correct order of DIMM population. He happened to mention that he took out the ram stick from the blue slot furthest away from the CPU. I mistakenly thought it was the first black slot closest to the CPU, because I had FORGOTTEN which slot it was originally in!

Apparantly I took the 8GB stick of ram out to look at it and record the part number in order to try to find a matching stick to purchace. I thought I knew which slot it should go back into, using what I thought was the logical slot to start.

I was wrong, and found that out after I installed the GTX1050 video card and thought that it overloaded and shorted out the display output from the MB somehow after trying the following steps?

So I went in and tried moving the ram stick to different slots and rebooting to no avail. I think I even tried the correct slot and it failed to boot, maybe I did not? 

To make a long story short, when I found out online that the ram stick should go into the last blue slot farthest from the CPU, I immediately went in an moved it to the correct slot, connected the DVI cable to the onboard graphics and ouila! it booted up.

I setup Windows 8, and loaded the drivers for the Nvidia card and put the GTX1050 back in and everything is perfect now. I benchmarked the online graphics against the GTX and the GTX just blew it away in fps and every other test!

I learned a smart lesson from a stupid mistake that anybody could make......always document your steps, don't count on your memory or knowledge of computers or even experience to save you from an error!

Thanks again for your help and I hope this will serve to help someone else with a similiar problem. Ron.

[savvy2]

ESD damage, keep one hand grounded or use  a wrist strap. (wiki esd proceedures , static discharge)

learn how to discharge the +5vSB stanby  bus.  (power off , uplug, line cords AC , push power see or hear fans spin for 1sec. (all ATX and ATX2 and beyond have this pin , that stays hot... its not new. idle....

the wait 1/2hr to get that bus to 0v.  goal; is below 0.5vdc to unlatch any CMOS devices that want to do that.

wiki (CMOS latchup)

this is now a DEAD Cold 0v , system, like this and is safe to work on, (safe to IT)

do not work on any pc, doing this level of work get and read your HP service manual,,  first.

see those dimm solts. those are bank 0,1,2,3  slots. each slot has rules, for max size and for sure class of DMM sticks used.

(complex rules, even density rules, ask kingson  to help, they will tell you what works right there.

not only that The BIOS will reject sticks it can't understand, (pnp scans each stick and gets what it is there)

the rules loading RAM is clearly in all mobo manuals in print.  (and in pairs is best. for max speed) in the correct slots

all this is in the manual, if you read it.

if you put the memory 1 stick in the wrong slot on most PC, it will not run.  and get black screen

even BIOS needs one bank of memory to run or its BLACK screen time.

if you plug in PCI cards (GPU or WIFI or NIC) , not at 0vdc you risk damage. (at both ends)

if you had  PCI POST card you'd see it glowing. again wiki covers that....

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/POST_card

when doing lots of work on any PC DT< i use this to keep me honest.  "no hot switching ram or PCI"

my ASUS has this built in.

HP saved 5cents  leaving out the standy led lamp, on the mobo,  a silly IDEA, in IMO.

the lamp also helps discharge the bus to 2vdc fast then slower to 0.5v (push the power button to get it lower fast now)

the leave it off for 1/2hr. if you have $500 loaded MOBO and $300 GPU, think first. delay, and then work.

lots to lose  on nice PC. 

The DDR rules are complex, one of the most complex rules are the MMC rules.

this is the memory management controller,  in  modern intel CPU its inside the CPU,

and the worst ive seen ever, was i3 or the super old,  (nforce chips)

density rules, 1sided DRAM sticks only,  ram topology limits,  horrid limits, but far less now..... sure.

slot limits

system  max limits.

BIOS pnp limits. (bios scans stick, and say cant figure out what is there and guesses wrong or halts)

speed min.

ask kinston.com for help matching the correct memory, and win.... (this is not spam they are #1 )

all this is A+ certifications topics,  how to upgrade any PC. (and the evolutions of mobo, for 30 years)

[bootblack · Accepted solution]

Thanks savvy2 for your reply and great advice!

Yes, I always shut down, pull the power cord, and.. in the case of this power supply, the blue power light stays lit even after I pull the power cord. So I push the Start button on the computer after pulling the power cord out, then I ground myself and open the case and remove or replace components.

I presume pressing the Start (power on) button with the power cable removed discharges the caps. That's why the light goes out after you do it. But I am not completely sure about this though I haven't had any problems with r/r components or the computer after doing this.

I am used to working on older desktops (since the mid '90's....Win 3.0, 3.1, 3.11, OS2, 95, 98, XP , etc.) that had power on by Lan features, but not this kind of standby power on feature (like the +5VSB pin 9 of the PSU staying hot), but the PSU lite staying on was the tipoff to beware of. 

But I was not aware of your advice to(".....hear pc spin up for 1-3 seconds, release button.3: lit it sit for 1/2 hour min,  so all voltages on ALL CAPS are discharged !!!"}

That may be overly cautious, since I don't think what I did after the PSU Lite went out caused any "hot swapping" to occur( I never saw any signs of power, such as sparks or noise, after I worked with the lite out, and besides everything checks out perfect now.

However, I will not take your advice with a 'grain of salt', and will follow up on "...read(ing) how to work on desktops first" before I attempt another upgrading. (Is that article on this forum?)

I'm not sure what you mean by a "..POST PCI card,  from fleabay" (do you mean eBay or actually the website Fleabay?) is or how to use it, or how it applys to my computer, if you could elaborate on that, I would be grateful.

Thanks again for your helpful advice, and getting me up to speed on the newer changes in desktop technology. Kudos!