Note on archived topics.
11-18-2014 10:04 PM
If you don't mind taking apart your keyboard dock.
Take it appart and Unplug your battery in the keyboard dock.
Its a the multi-color cable. ( the cable is red, orange, white, green, and black)
For some reason, when the battery is bad on the keyboard dock it will cause a voltage drop when you try to dock it with the main unit. odd.
01-22-2015 12:28 PM
I too ran into this similar problem with my hp split x2 keyboard. After 9 months of smooth running and issue free gameplay, my keyboard was nonresponsive. The lights from “F12, Wireless Connection” and “caps lock” keys were periodically turning on and off. My son drinks soda while playing Minecraft so I checked but didn’t find any stuck or sticky bottoms. Another concern was my son would sometimes abuse the keyboard out of frustration during online gaming but he said he didn’t. I then thought of all the mod’s I downloaded for Minecraft and all the free software I used to help me capture and edit gameplay with onscreen webcam for gaming tutorials. I narrowed the problem down by detaching the monitor from the keyboard. The onscreen keyboard work’s great, therefore my dilemma has to be somewhere in the detachable keyboard. I detached all USBs, the power connection, and the monitor from the keyboard for thirty minutes. Lo and behold, my keyboard reset and my crisis was over. A week has past now and no further problems. Before downloading drivers and updates, try detaching all peripheral devices and especially power from the keyboard first, like I did. I hope this helps. I have many computers and this Hewlett Packard split x2 is my favorite. Better than my Surface Pro 3
01-28-2015 12:04 AM
Please check the software download section for this issue. There was a new bios released that is supposed to deal with this issue. Also if you have the issue with mouse misbehaving, disable both Generic USB Hubs from being shut off in power mode and restart. Just worked on someones that was having this issue and it seems to have fixed it. Mouse/touch has been flaky on this unit, but that seems to have resolved it
02-15-2015 01:27 PM
My Beautiful Wife and I were plagued by the vanishing keyboard issue as well. Definitely intermittant, which makes it more frustrating.
Not to talk down to anybody with a super simple answer, but here was what sent me slapping my forehead:
Remember: The screen has its own battery and the keyboard has its own battery. We had an iffy plug on our power strip. The screen worked fine. The keyboard was plugged in. But the keybard was going dead before the screen because of the power issue.
Your brain says, "there is light on my screen, but my keyboard isn't responding. must be a communications issue!"
Nope. Power issue. My wife would take the Split X2 to work and after a few minutes it worked fine (good power). She'd bring it home and after a few hours the keyboard would stop working even though it was "plugged in." (bad power).
Just a thought! Make sure your keybard is charged. Make sure the light next to the power plug in is at least solid orange, if not blue. If you don't see any light, your keyboard is Day-ud.
02-16-2015 03:35 PM
MY HP SPLIT X2 also had the same issue where the keyboard was glithing and turning on and off (noted easily bc the blue wifi light was flickering on and off with it). It was like the keyboard wasn't being recognized by the device - but what it really turned out to be was a faulty battery in the keyboard itself. I kept doing research becasue this issue happened 5 days after my warranty expired and finally came across some people talking about the battery. I scrolled my mouse over the battery sign in the utility bar and sure enough, battery 2 was either reading "present but not being charged" or "not present".
So I downloaded all the recommended drivers and spent hours more trying to solve the issue and diagnosing the computer, until I realized - SOME models don't come with a battery in the keyboard!
Solution: Removed the battery from the keyboard. (4 screws on back and then two screws underneath the stick rubber non skid pads (the ones furthest from the 4 visible screws). I opened the case, unplugged and removed the battery, WALA - no more issue whatsoever. Of course I just lost a lot of battery life, and it's possible if I buy a replacement for 70 bucks that it would work - but why risk it. Battery is good enough and the detriment of the computer keyboard only working sometimes or when plugged in has been eliminated.
03-28-2015 05:33 PM
Same issue. And same solution as above. Took the base apart and pulled the battery. Dock working perfectly now. Debating on if I'll replace the battery or not. $74 if I buy it direct from HP. I see some cheaper options online though...
04-09-2015 11:03 PM - edited 04-09-2015 11:34 PM
Was happy to come across this clear described steps to correct. The weird thing is, at first it didn't work, but after uninstalling the keyboard in 8.1 and rebooting, it did.
Going to go for the replacement battery because the combination of the two was perfect for my needs. See that on partsurfer, there are two sku's. Anyone have any first hand knowledge on the difference between 723997-006 and 723996-005?
11-22-2015 07:56 AM
I It's my 2 year aniversary for my computer and my keyboard stopped working.
I show two batteries, The lower battery (the second battery appears to be dead). I was able to charge the Primary battery by disconnecting the screen from the dock. Together or seperately, I see a quick orange light and a white light. Nothing on the keyboard works (such as a USB).
I'm thinking by reading all the posting the battery is bad and needs to be repalced. I'll try unplugging and replugging in an see if that works. My battery did fully charge once after this happened and I was able to get my files off the computer.
If someone has a realible source for gettting a battery for a split, I'd appreciate some feedback.
12-05-2015 02:21 AM
Well, that was frustrating.....
Dutifully worked through all the advice here and elsewhere and still no keyboard, though touchpad worked. Wasn't looking forward to replacing the whole keyboard, particularly from France, so thought I'd have an old-fashioned look at the wiring. Et, la voila: bare wires!
I noticed that the wiring leading into the pivot rod were wrapped, not extruded in plastic. The two wires obviously must be keep insulated from each other, and they were bare in two places: where the wires enter the hollow pivot pin on the right side, and at their other end near the power jack.
Wrapped wires? Strange for a mechanism that will be rotated many times during its life. I'm a mech engineer, and almost completely clueless about computer architecture, but this looks like a dumb piece of design. A real lack of foresight.
Solution: it looked too hard to tape the individual wires to keep them insulated so I stuffed 'Blue Tak (plastic putty) between them to keep them apart. Screwed it all back together and it's like new again.
Hope this low tech solution helps you avoid the expensive replacement of a part that looks like it was designed for planned obsolescence!