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HP Recommended

> the chipset of my PC is only compatible with 800MHz RAM, so it is a waste if I go for 1066MHz RAM.

 

Check the pricing -- almost no cost difference between the two speeds of RAM.
Also, most 1066 Mhz RAM will "underclock" itself, if the motherboard supports only 800 Mhz, due to the SPD (Serial Presence Detect) chip on the RAM, that lists the two (or three) different configurations that this stick supports.

I would buy the faster RAM, to allow for the RAM to be re-purposed in the "next" motherboard that I might use.


> the desktop still feels sluggish, especially the first 5 minutes after Windows 10 startup.

 

Reboot, with the network cable disconnected from the computer, and observe again.
I think that you are seeing Windows "calling home", downloading anti-virus updates, and fetching other Windows Updates.


> I noticed that the hard disk usage during the first 5 minutes of the Windows 10 start-up is almost 100%.

 

It could be your anti-virus software doing a "quick" scan of the files on your disk-drive.

The photo you included shows "zero" current network traffic, but the graph shows that there has been significant traffic.
That's why I suggest that you "experiment", by starting-up without an Internet connection.


> I think the speed of this hard disk is 7200RPM.

Correct. See:  https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136075


> I'm thinking of replacing the hard disk with SSD, but I need to check whether the SATA that comes together with Intel Q33 Express is SATA I or SATA II. If only SATA I, I'm afraid that the speed of the SSD will be reduced too much..

 

See: https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/hp-compaq-dc5800-small-form-factor-pc/3658082/model/3658094/doc...

 

The original hardware options list SATA II (or better) disk-drives.
Note: even if the motherboard is SATA-one, the lack of "rotational delay" of a SSD will greatly speed-up your input/output.


> even though the temperature displayed in the second photo has dropped compared with the first photo, the fan noise is just the same.

 

Yes, that "calling home" immediately after booting-up makes the CPU work, especially if updates are found, and that generates more heat.
Once those updates are done, the CPU cools down, as you have observed.

 

Open Windows Update, and check the "Update History", to see if updates were applied "today".

 

Open your anti-virus software, and check its "history", to see if the most-recent virus-scan was done "today".

 

Have you ever shutdown your computer, disconnected the AC power, and used a can of compressed air to give a "blow-job" into the power-supply?
Given that your computer is from the Microsoft Vista era, there could be quite an accumulation of dust inside.

Dust impedes the ability of the fan to push air around.

 

Experiment: swap-in a different power-supply, to see if its fan is any quieter.

 

HP Recommended

@mdklassen wrote:

 

Check the pricing -- almost no cost difference between the two speeds of RAM.
Also, most 1066 Mhz RAM will "underclock" itself, if the motherboard supports only 800 Mhz, due to the SPD (Serial Presence Detect) chip on the RAM, that lists the two (or three) different configurations that this stick supports.

I would buy the faster RAM, to allow for the RAM to be re-purposed in the "next" motherboard that I might use. 


Already bought 800 Mhz RAM few months ago 🙂

 


@mdklassen wrote:

 

Reboot, with the network cable disconnected from the computer, and observe again.
I think that you are seeing Windows "calling home", downloading anti-virus updates, and fetching other Windows Updates.


Make sense. I brought the control unit to a refurbish HP desktop seller near my home this morning to ask opinion from the shopkeeper. The desktop was not noisy and overheating when it was at the shop - the desktop was not connected to the internet at that time.

 


@mdklassen wrote:

 

It could be your anti-virus software doing a "quick" scan of the files on your disk-drive.

The photo you included shows "zero" current network traffic, but the graph shows that there has been significant traffic.
That's why I suggest that you "experiment", by starting-up without an Internet connection.


No antivirus was installed by the time this photo was taken. However, Windows Defender was updated to the latest version by the time the photo was taken.

 


@mdklassen wrote:

 

Correct. See:  https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136075


Understood, thank you.

 


@mdklassen wrote:

 

See: https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/hp-compaq-dc5800-small-form-factor-pc/3658082/model/3658094/doc...

The original hardware options list SATA II (or better) disk-drives.
Note: even if the motherboard is SATA-one, the lack of "rotational delay" of a SSD will greatly speed-up your input/output.


Thank you for the SATA II confirmation. Thank you also for explaining that installing an SSD on SATA I will still give improvement compared to HDD. Already bought a used SSD for the desktop.

 


@mdklassen wrote:

 

Yes, that "calling home" immediately after booting-up makes the CPU work, especially if updates are found, and that generates more heat.
Once those updates are done, the CPU cools down, as you have observed.


Thank you again for this valuable information - I never know about this previously.

 


@mdklassen wrote:

 

Open Windows Update, and check the "Update History", to see if updates were applied "today".

Open your anti-virus software, and check its "history", to see if the most-recent virus-scan was done "today".


Roger that. Will do it in few more days if the fan is still noisy and overheating.

 


@mdklassen wrote:

 

Have you ever shutdown your computer, disconnected the AC power, and used a can of compressed air to give a "blow-job" into the power-supply?
Given that your computer is from the Microsoft Vista era, there could be quite an accumulation of dust inside.
Dust impedes the ability of the fan to push air around.


The shopkeeper at the refurbished HP shop helped me cleaning the dust at the front inletintake-fan and also gave a "blow-job" into the power-supply and CPU heat sink using a can of compressed air this morning 😛

 


@mdklassen wrote:

 

Experiment: swap-in a different power-supply, to see if its fan is any quieter.


I think it is no longer necessary because all of the thing that you mentioned above are proven/make sense. I will keep on monitoring the temperature for few more days/weeks and update about it here.

 

Thank you very much and have a nice day.

HP Recommended

> After the memory modules have been upgraded, I immediately opened the task manager immediately after the windows startup and discovered that the memory usage is 2.2 GB ...

 

When you only had 2.0 GB of RAM, Windows would spend some time writing the "extra" 0.2 GB out to the disk-drive, and, when necessary, reading it back in.  Such "swapping" can definitely make your computer feel sluggish, as you reported.

 

Note that the SPECCY software will report on the SATA ports on the motherboard.

It will show each port's maximum speed (SATA 2? SATA 3?) and the current speed for the current device.

 

P.S. The "Windows Defender" software is an anti-virus program.  So, from "day zero", your Windows 10 system did have anti-virus software installed.

 

HP Recommended

@mdklassen wrote:

When you only had 2.0 GB of RAM, Windows would spend some time writing the "extra" 0.2 GB out to the disk-drive, and, when necessary, reading it back in.  Such "swapping" can definitely make your computer feel sluggish, as you reported.

 

Note that the SPECCY software will report on the SATA ports on the motherboard.

It will show each port's maximum speed (SATA 2? SATA 3?) and the current speed for the current device.

 

P.S. The "Windows Defender" software is an anti-virus program.  So, from "day zero", your Windows 10 system did have anti-virus software installed.

 


Understood. Thank you for the info.

 

 


@mdklassen wrote:

 

Note that the SPECCY software will report on the SATA ports on the motherboard.

It will show each port's maximum speed (SATA 2? SATA 3?) and the current speed for the current device.

 


Thank you also for this info. I've downloaded and installed the software . I think this Speccy softwares gives more information than other softwares that I've tried before (including Speedfan, CPU-Z, and Crystal Disk Info)

 

 


@mdklassen wrote:

P.S. The "Windows Defender" software is an anti-virus program.  So, from "day zero", your Windows 10 system did have anti-virus software installed.

 


Allright. Previously I thought Windows Defender was not counted/considered as anti-virus 😛

 


Thank you again for those additional information.

HP Recommended

> Previously I thought Windows Defender was not counted/considered as anti-virus.

 

In a way, you are correct.

 

Over the years, Microsoft did a name-change.

 

Windows 7 had a minimal built-in anti-malware product, named "Windows Defender".

 

Also, Microsoft offered "Microsoft Security Essentials" as a full anti-virus product, for free.

(I guess it was less expensive for Microsoft to offer a free anti-virus product than to retain lots of staff at their Call Center to try to help people with virus-infected computers, because those "penny-pinching" people did not buy some anti-virus software. Sigh.)

 

But, in Windows 10, Microsoft renamed "Microsoft Security Essentials" as "Windows Defender".

At the same time, they removed the restriction that any small business (using Windows 7) was limited to using M.S.E. on a maximum of TEN computers within their business.

 

HP Recommended

@mdklassen wrote:

> Previously I thought Windows Defender was not counted/considered as anti-virus.

 

In a way, you are correct.

 

Over the years, Microsoft did a name-change.

 

Windows 7 had a minimal built-in anti-malware product, named "Windows Defender".

 

Also, Microsoft offered "Microsoft Security Essentials" as a full anti-virus product, for free.

(I guess it was less expensive for Microsoft to offer a free anti-virus product than to retain lots of staff at their Call Center to try to help people with virus-infected computers, because those "penny-pinching" people did not buy some anti-virus software. Sigh.)

 

But, in Windows 10, Microsoft renamed "Microsoft Security Essentials" as "Windows Defender".

At the same time, they removed the restriction that any small business (using Windows 7) was limited to using M.S.E. on a maximum of TEN computers within their business.

 


All right, understood. Thank you very much for the explaination.

 

Btw, I have replaced the Pentium E2200 with Core2 Quad Q9650 again and am monitoring the noise and air coming out from the power supply fan. So far, the fan is is not noisy and doesn't produce hot air.

 

If everything goes on well, I will add a suitable graphic card to the desktop.

HP Recommended

The PSU fan for my HP Compaq dc5800 Small Form Factor is still noisy 70% of the time, depending on which website that I surf. However, this time the fan only make a noisy sound without heating my room to a non-comfortable level.

 

Ath this moment, I made assumption that the Intel® Core™2 Quad Q9650 that I installed on the desktop has too much TDP (95 W) compared to the previous Intel® Pentium® E2200 (65 W) that comes together with the HP Compaq dc5800 Small Form Factor.

 

I'm planning to put back the  Intel® Pentium® E2200 (65 W). If the noise level is managed to be reduced to a comfortable level, I'm planning to install Intel® Core™2 Duo E8600 (65 W), which is the most powerful 65 W CPU that is compatible with HP Compaq dc5800 Small Form Factor (according to HP Compaq dc5800 Business PC QuickSpecs).

 

P/S: The guy in the following video claim that the CPU fan for his very old desktop with AMD Athlon 64-bit CPU also becomes noisy when it is running a 32-bit Windows 10 (he suspect that it might be worse if he installed the 64 bit Windows 10. I also suspect that this might be another reason why my HP Compaq dc5800 Small Form Factor is still noisy up until now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7FSS6S1ZcV0&t=917s

HP Recommended

P/S: The guy in the following video claim that the CPU fan for his very old desktop with AMD Athlon 64-bit CPU also becomes noisy when it is running a 32-bit Windows 10 (he suspect that it might be worse if he installed the 64 bit Windows 10 ---  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7FSS6S1ZcV0

 

After 8:35 in the video, he states "single-core", 2.0 Ghz, with 1 GB of RAM.

He shows that his computer has 4 slots for RAM.

Microsoft's "minimum" for 32-bit Windows 10 is single-core, 1.0 Ghz, with 1 GB of RAM.

Microsoft's "minimum" for 64-bit Windows 10 is single-core, 1.0 Ghz, with 2 GB of RAM.

So, his computer does not meet the minimum for 64-bit Windows.

 

To me, it's not surprising that his system is "busy" and the fan is "noisy", with only minimal RAM.

Add another 1 GB to 3 GB, and 32-bit Windows will use the first 3.2 GB, and run much faster, and probably the fan will slow down, and become more quiet, because the CPU will not need to "swap" between the RAM and the disk-drive.

 

> I also suspect that this might be another reason why my HP Compaq dc5800 Small Form Factor is still noisy up until now.

 

The motherboard measures the temperature of your motherboard, and speeds-up the fan, when necessary, to cool the computer.

 

HP Recommended

@mdklassen wrote:

After 8:35 in the video, he states "single-core", 2.0 Ghz, with 1 GB of RAM.

He shows that his computer has 4 slots for RAM.

Microsoft's "minimum" for 32-bit Windows 10 is single-core, 1.0 Ghz, with 1 GB of RAM.

Microsoft's "minimum" for 64-bit Windows 10 is single-core, 1.0 Ghz, with 2 GB of RAM.

So, his computer does not meet the minimum for 64-bit Windows.

 

To me, it's not surprising that his system is "busy" and the fan is "noisy", with only minimal RAM.

Add another 1 GB to 3 GB, and 32-bit Windows will use the first 3.2 GB, and run much faster, and probably the fan will slow down, and become more quiet, because the CPU will not need to "swap" between the RAM and the disk-drive.

  


All right, understood. For my case however, the RAM is 8GB 800Mhz. After the RAM has been upgraded to 8GB800Mhz, I opened the task manager immediately after the windows startup and discovered that the memory usage is 2.2 GB. However, the power supply fan is still noisy (at a non-comfortable level) even though the RAM has been upgraded.

 

Right now, the CPU has been downgraded from Intel® Core™2 Quad Q9650 (95 W) to Intel® Pentium® E2200 (65 W). The power supply fan noise is still there, but reduced a little bit. At the same time, the windows 10 while using E2200 feels more sluggish than while using the Q9650 - when I open the windows task manager, the CPU usage is always 98% after the computer is downgraded back to E2200 (this thing never happen when it was upgraded to Q9650).

 

I plan to upgrade the computer to Intel® Core™2 Duo E8600 (65 W). If there is no improvement in terms of power supply fan noise, overheating, and computer speed, I think it is already the time for me to stop pushing this computer to the limit. The most that I can do from that point onward is to install an Ubuntu (or other Linux distros), just in case if I want to give the computer a second chance.

 

 


@mdklassen wrote:

The motherboard measures the temperature of your motherboard, and speeds-up the fan, when necessary, to cool the computer.

  


If that's the case, I assume that the TDP for Intel® Core™2 Quad Q9650 (95 W) is too much for the computer (OR the temperature sensor on the motherboard is faulty). This is also the reason why I would like to try one more time, but with Intel® Core™2 Duo E8600 (65 W).

 

 

Thank you very much for your feedback.

HP Recommended

> However, the power supply fan is still noisy (at a non-comfortable level)

 

Hmm. 

 

Your computer probably has two fans -- one inside the power-supply, and one on the heat-sink on top of the processor.

 

If the power-supply fan is noisy, then replace the power-supply, to (hopefully) get a quieter fan.

It's my impression that the speed of this fan is *NOT* controlled by the motherboard.

So, changing the processor will not have any effect on this fan.

 

Experiment: while the computer is running, take the eraser-tip on top of a pencil, and lightly touch the centre (not the fan blades!) of the fan on top of the heat-sink, to slow it down, but not stop it, and simultaneously listen for a reduction in the noise-level.  Maybe, a different fan might be quieter?

 

 

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