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I need a 2nd hard drive cable and caddy for a 17z-cp1xxx.

I have a 17z-cp coming that I just ordered, and realized that it probably doesn't come with the SATA cable for the 2nd drive since I didn't order one with it. I have existing drives I'd like to use, which is why I didn't order one.

 

The current cable part number is M75893-001. The previous was L22526-001.


Are the previous connectors functionally equivalent? Are they wired the same inside?

 

If you look at this post, he is suggesting the L22526-001 on a ProBook 470 g8, who's current manual specifies the M75893-001:

https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Hardware-and-Upgrade-Questions/Add-2nd-hdd-to-probook-470-g8/...

 

I ask because M75893-001 are non-existent right now. CP and CN models have been out a long time now, even though the cp100 is new. So I have little hope there will be any anywhere, maybe ever. 😞


I can't imagine they would change the pinout because soooo many people are going to try to move the whole caddy/cable assembly over when upgrading. Especially cant imagine HP changing the power pins, as would be super easy to pick up the wrong one at HP or a repair shop 

Surely by now someone has tried the different cables on the 17 CP or CN.



 Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.  Starting to panic a little.

 

 

--- 

 

Here are some other posts i found for reference:

https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Hardware-and-Upgrade-Questions/How-to-add-SSD-hp-17-cn0067ur/...

https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Hardware-and-Upgrade-Questions/Add-Sata-HD-to-HP-Laptop-17t-c...


--- 

Followup:

I have my laptop.

I have also checked an old 17-j cable and the and the 17-j pinouts are as follows, pins starting in order from the right with the leads facing up and the cable toward you:

17-jpins ZIF starting from right, cable toward

 

 

  pins drive, starting right side data, cable awayZIF # 
 1+5 VDC data17  GND
 2+5 VDC  29  A+
 3+5 VDC  38  A-
 4COM  47  GND
 5B+  56  B-
 6B-  65  B+
 7GND  77  GND
    power     
 8A-  8410 COM
 9A+  9410 COM
 10COM  10410 COM
     11123+5 VDC
     12123+5 VDC
     13123+5 VDC
     14410 COM
     15410 COM


15-cm, exactly the same, except for an extra NC +3.3 pin (not connected) on the drive side:

15-cmpins ZIF starting from right, cable toward   pins drive, starting right side data, cable awayZIF # 
 1+5 VDC data17  GND
 2+5 VDC  29  A+
 3+5 VDC  38  A-
 4COM  47  GND
 5B+  56  B-
 6B-  65  B+
 7GND  77  GND
    power NC  +3.3 VDC
 8A-  8410 COM
 9A+  9410 COM
 10COM  10410 COM
     11123+5 VDC
     12123+5 VDC
     13123+5 VDC
     14410 COM
     15410 COM


Ok, the 17-by is exactly the same as the 15-cm, including the NC +3.3 VDC.

 

1 ACCEPTED SOLUTION

Accepted Solutions
HP Recommended

Ok I'm back from the dead.  It works.

I now have both my new NVMe 970 EVO Plus 1TB and my old 850 EVO 1TB 2.5 in SATA, as well as new DDR4 3200 -  32 GB Samsung 2Rx8 installed and just booted up with a clean install of windows 11 which I am typing on now.

 

Here's the breakdown, while I wait for drivers to install:
----


I tested each cable for pinouts with a meter against the SATA spec for the drive side. I wanted some assurance there was some year over year consistency before maybe I actually stuck a drive in. I also was not about to try to use probes on the ZIF on a live laptop.  What I learned I think might help a few others. 

The list of known good cables (by me) for HP cp100, cp000, cn000:

PickedCable modelLaptop serieseBay item I ordered 
*L23889-00115-cs, 15-cw, 15t-cs, 15z-cs, etc...https://www.ebay.com/itm/284251101364near same lenght and folds work as is
 L22534-00117-by, 17-ca, 17q-cr, 17z-ca, 17t-by, etc...https://www.ebay.com/itm/224994774300longer than neccessary, would still work
 M75893-00117-cp, 17-cn, 17z-cp, etc...  

 

The 17-j / 15-j series will probably also work fine, but are missing the 3.3v NC pin, which has no connection to the cable or motherboard, but may be used to trick certain odd drives. No 2.5 inch drives that I know of have a connection to any 3.3v pin. It's easy to see by looking at the drive and the traces and how those pins arnt even connected to the boards. 2.5 inch boards are just void of 12v and 3.3v. MSATA that uses only 3.3v, and 2.5 inch SATA uses only 5v.


I chose the cm-15 cable because it was nearly the same length and the fold was already in the right place.
20220526_214621[1].jpg

 

20220526_214627.jpg

 

 

20220526_214632.jpg

 

 

20220526_214815.jpg

 

 

I used an old 17-j/15-j series drive blue caddy, the thin blue rubber kind, trimmed to mechanically fit the same. I Attempted using the 17-by and 15-cm caddies, but there were various issues.  The BY was too fat, the rails weren't skinny enough, and the cm was just one side.  The DV style caddies are just thin enough to fit. Is a very nice fit around the edges.
20220526_223439.jpg

 

 

20220526_223445[1].jpg

 

20220526_223510[1].jpg

 

20220526_223516[1].jpg

 

If you watch the HP 17 cn/cp000 disassembly video, and some of the others, you can see the drive itself is supposed to be nearly flush with its mount hole sides, and the black nubs stick up a bit, and there is no material between the drive and the cable. Its important to consider so that the case comes back together correctly and the cable have no real pressure on it from the case.

Here is the BIOS test screen showing both drives,:
20220526_215956[1].jpg

Here is the 17 cp100 before the Windows 11 re-install, with all the new parts: 20220526_220025.jpg

 

 

 

Here's the disk manager with both drives after the install:
Screenshot 2022-05-26 223743.png

 


In the day I've had this laptop, I've ended up with a lot to say about. I know there's really very little out there about what to really expect or how it really performs. So feel free to ask here in this forum anything.

 

A few last thoughts.

The CP model does not need 25w boost. I  hit 3300 single thread passmark score, running the single test by itself. That's the top for the 5825u in nearly any context. And that was using the HP OBE install of Win 11 with HP default power profile. Its good as is. If you try to boost it its a bit pointless as the fan wont keep up, and the performance is great without.  19540 multi-thread test passmark stock, and that's with the Samsung 8GB (2x4GB) 1rx16 memory it came with.

The keyboard and the rest seem fine. Mine ended up with a realtek AX wifi card which seems to work fine.

I know this is all off topic, but still in context together,  for future travelers, who I hope this helps.

I bought mine for software development and wanted a cheap way to speed up my compiles and other flow. It works very well for that, where i got to test it out earlier today.

AMD software claims the panel has freesync also. So thats way more than i expected. This laptop is a steal for nearly anything but hardcore gaming. Few games I played seemed more than fine.



View solution in original post

5 REPLIES 5
HP Recommended

The HP M75893-001 part you are asking about seems to be available. It is not made of unobtanium. Not just yet, anyway.

 

https://www.impactcomputers.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=M75893-001

 

 

The original part  L22526-001 you asked about also seems to be available.

https://www.impactcomputers.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=L22526-001

 

You would be far better off using the product number for notebooks that HP uses instead of using a couple of the letters to try to describe it .

(example. I own an HP Spectre 13-ap0xxx  notebook which is more specifically a 7DR73EA#ABH.

The first group of alphanumerics before the # in the product number specify the hardware configuration. )

 

Product numbers are very specific and ensure that what you find is the right part for a specific HP product.

 

Otherwise, you may be taking an unnecessary risk.

HP Recommended

Ok I'm back from the dead.  It works.

I now have both my new NVMe 970 EVO Plus 1TB and my old 850 EVO 1TB 2.5 in SATA, as well as new DDR4 3200 -  32 GB Samsung 2Rx8 installed and just booted up with a clean install of windows 11 which I am typing on now.

 

Here's the breakdown, while I wait for drivers to install:
----


I tested each cable for pinouts with a meter against the SATA spec for the drive side. I wanted some assurance there was some year over year consistency before maybe I actually stuck a drive in. I also was not about to try to use probes on the ZIF on a live laptop.  What I learned I think might help a few others. 

The list of known good cables (by me) for HP cp100, cp000, cn000:

PickedCable modelLaptop serieseBay item I ordered 
*L23889-00115-cs, 15-cw, 15t-cs, 15z-cs, etc...https://www.ebay.com/itm/284251101364near same lenght and folds work as is
 L22534-00117-by, 17-ca, 17q-cr, 17z-ca, 17t-by, etc...https://www.ebay.com/itm/224994774300longer than neccessary, would still work
 M75893-00117-cp, 17-cn, 17z-cp, etc...  

 

The 17-j / 15-j series will probably also work fine, but are missing the 3.3v NC pin, which has no connection to the cable or motherboard, but may be used to trick certain odd drives. No 2.5 inch drives that I know of have a connection to any 3.3v pin. It's easy to see by looking at the drive and the traces and how those pins arnt even connected to the boards. 2.5 inch boards are just void of 12v and 3.3v. MSATA that uses only 3.3v, and 2.5 inch SATA uses only 5v.


I chose the cm-15 cable because it was nearly the same length and the fold was already in the right place.
20220526_214621[1].jpg

 

20220526_214627.jpg

 

 

20220526_214632.jpg

 

 

20220526_214815.jpg

 

 

I used an old 17-j/15-j series drive blue caddy, the thin blue rubber kind, trimmed to mechanically fit the same. I Attempted using the 17-by and 15-cm caddies, but there were various issues.  The BY was too fat, the rails weren't skinny enough, and the cm was just one side.  The DV style caddies are just thin enough to fit. Is a very nice fit around the edges.
20220526_223439.jpg

 

 

20220526_223445[1].jpg

 

20220526_223510[1].jpg

 

20220526_223516[1].jpg

 

If you watch the HP 17 cn/cp000 disassembly video, and some of the others, you can see the drive itself is supposed to be nearly flush with its mount hole sides, and the black nubs stick up a bit, and there is no material between the drive and the cable. Its important to consider so that the case comes back together correctly and the cable have no real pressure on it from the case.

Here is the BIOS test screen showing both drives,:
20220526_215956[1].jpg

Here is the 17 cp100 before the Windows 11 re-install, with all the new parts: 20220526_220025.jpg

 

 

 

Here's the disk manager with both drives after the install:
Screenshot 2022-05-26 223743.png

 


In the day I've had this laptop, I've ended up with a lot to say about. I know there's really very little out there about what to really expect or how it really performs. So feel free to ask here in this forum anything.

 

A few last thoughts.

The CP model does not need 25w boost. I  hit 3300 single thread passmark score, running the single test by itself. That's the top for the 5825u in nearly any context. And that was using the HP OBE install of Win 11 with HP default power profile. Its good as is. If you try to boost it its a bit pointless as the fan wont keep up, and the performance is great without.  19540 multi-thread test passmark stock, and that's with the Samsung 8GB (2x4GB) 1rx16 memory it came with.

The keyboard and the rest seem fine. Mine ended up with a realtek AX wifi card which seems to work fine.

I know this is all off topic, but still in context together,  for future travelers, who I hope this helps.

I bought mine for software development and wanted a cheap way to speed up my compiles and other flow. It works very well for that, where i got to test it out earlier today.

AMD software claims the panel has freesync also. So thats way more than i expected. This laptop is a steal for nearly anything but hardcore gaming. Few games I played seemed more than fine.



HP Recommended

I've now had a chance to test the new setup, the one in my answer last night.

see: https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Hardware-and-Upgrade-Questions/HP-17-cp-17-cn-and-470-g8-2nd-...

To be clear as I didn't really explain completely before, I ordered a custom 17z-cp100, the model which has the latest Ryzen U series Barcelo processor, which are basically the new budget U series, based on Zen 3 instead of the Zen 2 in the cp000. Thats why I finally pulled the trigger and bought one.  I ordered with base drive and memory, but the top 5825u. I noticed the Wifi options kept changing, but when I ordered mine, it was left at the default which was the MT. In the end I ended up receiving the Realtek version of the  AX+Bluetooth, which is fine, and I probably lucked out.  I have an extra AX210 on hand, but I chose to leave the Realtek in when I did the upgrades last night.

I may come back and edit and fill in the model numbers of what i received for everything later. The default memory was Samsung 1Rx16 and the drive was dram-less Samsung NVMe.  In the test they worked just fine, and with the exception of the drive test, the numbers were very close to my upgraded versions.  The new parts are Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB and 32GB Samsung 2Rx8.   I say all this so the tests below make sense for context.

----

So, here are the PassMark numbers:

The previous two are my tests from last night before upgrades on the stock OBE Win 11 (out of the box stock windows 11), run with HP default power profile, and stock Balanced profile, itself set to balanced. The current test today is clean Win 11 with the new parts described above, on stock Win 11 Balanced power profile, itself set to high.  None of these tests were using APC TDP changer utility, this is stock TDP. I tried a few attempts, but it made it worse by a lot. I think these retuned xx25 processors are riding their own max temp with some new magic and I wouldn't bother. The CP/CNs are a single fan single pipe setup, and I'm getting numbers near-ish of the ProBook 14s, so I'm not going to bother. The juice is very good, and I'm not going to squeeze anymore.

 

---

 

Edit 5/30/2022:

I'd like to amend what I said before about the TDP. After finally checking, this model is already set for sustained 25W by HP.   I thought maybe it was some kind of boost during the test, but its already tuned 25W automatically.

Today I tried HWMonitor, and kept a load on it using the Pass Mark home screen, and with a 1080p YouTube music video playing behind it, and it sat at 25w dead on for minutes and stayed maybe 77c the whole time.  The site says 15W so maybe it means the normal stated marketing TDP for the Ryzen U series. But it will for sure automatically go 25w under sustained load. On the cp100 at least there is no bios option to turn on or off, so it's just this way all the time. The Cooler looks like it can take it just fine.  I'd also like to point out that this was using Windows 11 clean install default Balance power profile, left itself at balance.  So... this laptop is the real deal. 

 

Beeeaaar_0-1653962185591.png

 

That one above shows 25w on package balancing GPU 3D render, 1080p video, and CPU.

This one shows CPU load at 25w, because I realized I hadn't seen the CPU only, yet so I went to check. And yep that works too. Max temp was 81.1.  I might try prime later, which is only CPU. This one is mixed memory and CPU. The 7z settings were 8 Core and 24GB used for compression over 10GB of mixed data.   

Beeeaaar_0-1653962614770.png

 

 Second test with all 16 threads was doing about 32MB/s. 256MB dictionary size, 23GB memory used for compression.


The rest below was my original post from the 27th.

-- End edit --

1) HP OBE Win 11 stock, with stock parts, with stock Balanced profile, which I switched to, to test
2) HP OBE Win 11 stock, with stock parts, with stock HP power profile, that it originally started up with
3) Clean Win 11 stock, with new parts, with stock Balanced profile set to high

Link to the last baseline, my current setup, is here:
PassMark Software - Display Baseline ID# 1572341

Passmark OverallPassmark Overall

 

Passmark CPUPassmark CPU

 

Passmark GPUPassmark GPU

 

Passmark MEMPassmark MEM

 

Passmark MEM WritePassmark MEM Write

 

Passmark DiskPassmark Disk


I'd argue that this is probably the best performance, with or without my upgrades, of any budget to mid model out there by anyone at the moment, esp. if you want a 17 inch where pickings are slim, very cleverly disguised as the lowest one they offer. Good job HP. 

HP Recommended

Thank you for the post. I am a bit confused, did you end up using the pn L22526-001 for your SATA cable in place of M75893-001?  Thank you.

HP Recommended

@LotsofQs wrote:

Thank you for the post. I am a bit confused, did you end up using the pn L22526-001 for your SATA cable in place of M75893-001?  Thank you.


No, it was the "L23889-001"


Yeah sorry. I wrote a lot of words for sure. Looking over it, its a bit disjointed and some errrors, but its all there. I should have made a list joining it all together then sayign which i chose. I was probalby tired at that point and brain fried from working on it that long.


The list of known good cables (by me) for HP cp100, cp000, cn000:

PickedCable modelLaptop serieseBay item I ordered 
*L23889-00115-cs, 15-cw, 15t-cs, 15z-cs, etc...https://www.ebay.com/itm/284251101364near same lenght and folds work as is
 L22534-00117-by, 17-ca, 17q-cr, 17z-ca, 17t-by, etc...https://www.ebay.com/itm/224994774300longer than neccessary, would still work
 M75893-00117-cp, 17-cn, 17z-cp, etc... part in the manual, but not any spares available or for reasonable price


I've added all of this to my anwser. Thanks for asking.
____

In the self-accepted answer near the top I wrote:



I chose the cm-15 cable because it was nearly the same length and the fold was already in the right place.

But... It was actually a "15-cs". Was either a typo or I had "cm" stuck in my head from looking at so many laptop parts.

If you seach for "HP 15-cs" drive cable you will find it in places like ebay, where mine was from.  Its a 15 inch laptop, in the CS series, like HP 15-cs000. You can try to search for both cable and the caddy. Like "hp 15-cs drive cable" or "hp 15-cs caddy".  You only need the cable part of course.  Can sort by cheapest also and then jsut go down the list whatever looks like the best deal in the best condition.




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